Page 113 - Materials Chemistry, Second Edition
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94                          Life Cycle Assessment of Wastewater Treatment


           6.1  INTRODUCTION
           6.1.1   THe environMenTal, HealTH, anD econoMic iMpacTs of TexTile
                  effluenTs
           The textile and apparel industry is a solid and relevant industry in many developed
           or developing countries, mainly in Asia. In this region, the production and marketing
           of textiles are one of the primary sources of employment for millions of people and a
           major contributor to export earnings and gross domestic product (Chen et al., 2017a).
           Nowadays, world consumption of clothing fibers has reached the level of 11 kg per
           capita, which represents a remarkable demand for raw materials and chemicals (Shui
           and Plastina, 2013).
              The chemical substances used in the manufacture of textiles can be categorized
           into:

              •  Functional chemical substances: substances added to the textile fibers to
                provide the desired properties of the final product (colorants and crease
                resistant agents)
              •  Auxiliary chemical substances: those required in the textile manufacture
                process (organic solvents, surfactants, softeners, salts, acids, bases, biocides)
              •  Chemical substances present as impurities and not intentionally added, such
                as formaldehyde released from certain resins, polyaromatic  hydrocarbons,
                metals, and so on

            These chemicals can be released and result in human and environmental exposure
            during normal wear and tear, washing, or when disposed of as waste. Among the
            substances mentioned in the preceding list, colorants arise as target contaminants
            in textile wastewaters, because their presence is highly visible at very low concen-
            trations (<1 mg L ), which negatively affects water transparency (Chequer et al.,
                          −1
            2013). Decreasing light penetration into water decreases photosynthetic activity,
            causing  oxygen deficiency and de-regulating the biological cycles of aquatic biota
            (Apostol et al., 2012). The term colorant encompasses both dyes and pigments, which
            can be differentiated by their solubility. While dyes are soluble compounds, mainly
            applied to textile materials in aqueous solution, pigments are insoluble, and they can
            be added in the formulation of paints, printing inks, or plastics (Christie, 2001).
              Until the mid-nineteenth century, only natural dyes with poor dyeing perfor-
            mance were used. Therefore, as a result of the need for more resistant dyes with
            easier application and improved thermal behavior, synthetic dyes were developed.
            That is why, 50 years after the origin of the dye industry in 1856, 90% of the dyes
            used were manufactured (Welham, 1963). The massive consumption of dyes in the
            textile industry accounts for approximately 70% of the dyes used worldwide.
              Colorants can be classified according to either their chemical structure or the
            application method. The most important reference on the classification of dyes
            and pigments is the Color Index, a report published by the Society of Dyers and
            Colourists in 1924 (O’Neill et al., 1999). This book series provides a complete list-
            ing of commercial dyes and known pigments, and it is periodically updated. Each
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