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National size and shape surveys for apparel design                 65

              increasing suppliers’ sample approval rates with lower sample making and delivery costs
           l
              and considerable time saving;
              enhancing the overall level of quality control (due to physical mannequin provision), which
           l
              provides an excellent QA communication tool;
              improving margins due to reduced returns and better sell-through rates/lower markdowns;
           l
           l  facilitating virtual garment visualization, digital design and range development, and
              approval.
           (Sizemic, 2012)
              Further sustainable practice can be achieved by using representative virtual shapes
           from a survey. These scan shapes can be uploaded into virtual design systems (such as
           Optitex and Assyst), where both contour and some free form clothing designs can be
           created and patterns unwrapped and flattened (e.g., Morlock et al., 2016; Kung, 2012;
           Kirchdoerfer et al., 2011; Krzywinski et al., 2005) from which patterns can be mor-
           phologically graded or resized (Kung, 2012; Sayem et al., 2014a,b). See images in
           Fig. 3.1.
              In addition, two-dimensional cross-sectional data are being used to help evaluate
           and select digital systems and identify air gaps between body surface and garment to




                                                        Fig. 3.1 Streamlining the fit of
                                                        products across the supply
                                                        chain using 3D data: (A) scan
                                                        and automatic measurement
                                                        extraction; (B) automatic
                                                        pattern and morphological
                                                        grading; and (C and D) physical
                                                        and virtual fit mannequins.
                                                        Sources: TPC Hong Kong Ltd.;
                                                        Sizemic Ltd.
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