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National size and shape surveys for apparel design 65
increasing suppliers’ sample approval rates with lower sample making and delivery costs
l
and considerable time saving;
enhancing the overall level of quality control (due to physical mannequin provision), which
l
provides an excellent QA communication tool;
improving margins due to reduced returns and better sell-through rates/lower markdowns;
l
l facilitating virtual garment visualization, digital design and range development, and
approval.
(Sizemic, 2012)
Further sustainable practice can be achieved by using representative virtual shapes
from a survey. These scan shapes can be uploaded into virtual design systems (such as
Optitex and Assyst), where both contour and some free form clothing designs can be
created and patterns unwrapped and flattened (e.g., Morlock et al., 2016; Kung, 2012;
Kirchdoerfer et al., 2011; Krzywinski et al., 2005) from which patterns can be mor-
phologically graded or resized (Kung, 2012; Sayem et al., 2014a,b). See images in
Fig. 3.1.
In addition, two-dimensional cross-sectional data are being used to help evaluate
and select digital systems and identify air gaps between body surface and garment to
Fig. 3.1 Streamlining the fit of
products across the supply
chain using 3D data: (A) scan
and automatic measurement
extraction; (B) automatic
pattern and morphological
grading; and (C and D) physical
and virtual fit mannequins.
Sources: TPC Hong Kong Ltd.;
Sizemic Ltd.