Page 165 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

160 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

landmark for the hip measurement is traditionally at the fullest protrusion of the but-
tocks; a circumference is taken parallel to the floor at this point. However, the largest
circumference of the lower body is generally lower, where the bulge of the thighs adds
to the circumference of the body (Fig. 6.11).
Another example of landmarking that is only determined by apparel practice is in
the placement of the side seam, the line down the side of the body that divides the front
of the body from the back of the body. This is an important landmark for apparel pat-
ternmaking because it is the dividing point to create arc measurements at the bust,
hips, and waist that define the balance of the body. Most apparel practitioners can
identify where the side seam should be placed to provide the best balance on different
body types—but it is difficult to define this in terms that can be automatically located
on a body scan reliably (Ashdown et al., 2008; Brownbridge et al., 2013).
Another area of the body that is complex and varied and therefore presents a problem
for automated measurement extraction is the neckline measurement taken at the base of
the neck (Huang et al., 2011). Though the cervicale at the back of the neck and the top of
the sternum at the front of the neck are generally (but not always) easily identifiable on a
scan, the actual placement of the neckline as it crosses the trapezius muscle on the side
of the neck can be very difficult to determine. The precise curve of the neckline is also an
apparel patternmaking construct. This measurement is therefore difficult when taken
manually as well. Some apparel practitioners have devised a method for determining
the desired curve using a chain that can be laid around the neck to determine the mea-
surement more precisely than is possible with a tape measure.

Fig. 6.11 Representations of the traditional hip measurement taken at the greatest protrusion of
the buttocks (the higher measurement) and the largest circumference value that is generally
lower on the body (where the bulge of the thigh adds to the circumference). The end-use
requirements of the study will determine which measurement is most useful.