Page 24 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

New directions in the field of anthropometry, sizing and clothing fit 19

Fig. 1.7 3D-2D-3D method of pattern making.

exported into a CAD program for patternmaking. Patterns for trousers were designed
directly on the scans as per personalized needs of comfort and performance of the users.
Design of functional clothing poses several challenges to a patternmaker. Protec-
tive clothing, for example, requires the designer to use several fabrics with heteroge-
neous properties to create a zoning effect. Design of a motorcycle riding suit with
zoning effect is shown in Fig. 1.7. The suit is divided into a protective zone for high
abrasion resistance, a comfort zone to allow for the body to be comfortable while rid-
ing the bike, and a ventilation zone for breathability. Availability of an avatar for such
applications can greatly facilitate a patternmaker by helping her design as per the
human anatomy, balancing the requirements of protection and comfort. Pattern shapes
obtained for the suit, shown in Fig. 1.6, are complex, and the number of pattern pieces
is large. Each pattern piece can be mapped with fabric having required properties, and
its performance in different poses can be studied.
The aforementioned processes though automated are still based on the skill of the
pattern designer.