Page 9 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

4 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

repositories are, as of now, small, local, or national but will grow to include international
data and become more intelligent as they accumulate data. Advanced data mining tech-
niques can process and retract data of specific populations for customized applications.
The process of patternmaking, considered so far to be a mix of art and science, is
now wholly digitalized. Complete automation wherein patterns can be generated
directly from body scans has not been accomplished yet, but it is possible to sketch
garments directly on a 3-D avatar. The virtual garment thus created can be flattened
out into 2-D pattern pieces through a series of operations, and the pattern pieces can be
draped back on the virtual form to test the fit.
Drawing patterns on real bodies allows the designer to see and understand the pecu-
liarities in body shape of specific population groups such as plus-size individuals or
senior women. Accordingly, they can modify the patterns to suit the requirements of
each body type. Inclusion of body movement data and availability of animated, real
body parametric avatars into the patternmaking process will bring about a paradigm
shift in how garments are designed. Designers are using these tools to study the effect
of body posture and movement on the shape and body dimensions of swimmers,
wheelchair-bound individuals, military personnel, fire fighters, or skiiers. Marginal-
ized population groups who are unable to fit currently into clothes produced for ide-
alized bodies will be able to get clothes specially designed for them. While on one
hand their needs would be met, on the other hand, it will open up new market segments
for the garment industry.
Traditional flat patterns that are the backbone of RTW industry are produced from
linear measures using simple rules that are known to all pattern makers. However, the
form and number of patterns created from 3-D avatars are varied and significantly dif-
ferent from the conventional blocks used by patternmakers. The way these pattern
pieces are joined to create a complete piece of clothing determines the final look
and fit of the garment.
Fit, defined as the relationship between an individual and their clothing, affects the
comfort, appearance, performance, and self-esteem of the user. A well-fitted garment
is produced from a combination of precise measurement and good pattern designing
with proper consideration of the physical and mechanical properties of materials. In
conventional systems, fit is assessed and approved by fit experts who work with
in-house fit models using a combination of subjective assessment and objective eval-
uation (Yu, 2004). However, there is a disconnect between the experts’ assessment
and consumers’ perception of fit leading to consumer dissatisfaction. Virtual methods
of fit assessment based on body scanning are becoming popular.
A variety of digital fit-testing systems are becoming available to the individual cus-
tomer, in the form of virtual try-on apps or tools on retail platforms. This is a revolution-
ary development as it establishes, for the first time, a two-way communication between
the customer and manufacturer. Social media platforms built around clothing fit bring in
the concept of peer review and create strong social connect with clothing. However, cor-
relation between scan-based fit and virtual try-on fit is yet to be established (Gill, 2015).
To summarize, it can be said that apparel supply chain is witnessing dramatic
changes due to technological developments in all fields of production. Apparel indus-
try is moving from a low-tech, labor-intensive industry into a software-driven