Page 245 - Cosmetology

confused with Madagascar periwinkle, Catharanthus roseus, that has anti-tumor properties. However,
Madagascar periwinkle is considered toxic and has limited use for cancer treatment.

Persea gratissima oil. See avocado oil.

petitgrain mandarin. See mandarin orange oil or extract.

petrolatum. Vaseline is pure petrolatum. For some unknown and unsubstantiated reason, petrolatum has
attained a negative image in regard to skin care, despite good research to the contrary. Topical application
of petrolatum can help the skin's outer layer recover from damage, reduce inflammation, and generally heal
the skin.

Pfaffia paniculata extract. Also known as suma extract and Brazilian ginseng. There is a small amount of
research showing it to have anti-inflammatory properties.

PHA. See polyhydroxy acid.

Phellodendron amurense extract. Extract of the Amur corktree; it can have anti-inflammatory and
antifungal benefits.

phenoxyethanol. Common cosmetic preservative that is considered one of the less irritating ones to use in
formulations. It does not release formaldehyde. See preservatives.

phenyl trimethicone. Silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone. See silicone.

phenylalanine. See amino acid.

phosphatidylcholine. The active ingredient found in lecithin. Every cell membrane in the body requires
phosphatidylcholine (PC). It is also a major source of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine. Acetylcholine is
used by the brain in areas that are involved in long-term planning, concentration, and focus. But all of this
information is associated with ingesting PC, not putting it on the skin. PC is considered a very good water-
binding agent and aids in the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It absorbs well without feeling
greasy or heavy (though other ingredients can perform similarly, including glycerin, ceramides, and
hyaluronic acid).

phosphatidylethanolamine. See cephalin.

phospholipid. Type of lipid (fat) composed of glycerol, fatty acids, and phosphate. Phospholipids are
essential to the function of cell membranes by providing a stable surrounding structure. Lecithin is an
example of a phosopholipid. See glyceryl ester and natural moisturizing factors.

phosphoric acid. Used as a pH adjuster in cosmetic and skin-care products.

photosensitizer. Ingredients that can cause the skin to have an irritated or inflamed reaction when exposed
to sunlight.

Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract. Has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

phytantriol. A hair- and skin-conditioning agent that also has water-binding properties.

phytic acid. A component of plants that has antioxidant properties.

phytoalexins. Antimicrobial substances that are produced by a plant in response to infection by fungi or
bacteria and that help to defend the plant by inhibiting the growth of invading microbes. Phytoalexins can
also be potent antioxidants, and the combination of those two properties is thought to have benefit for skin,
particularly for wound healing. How that relates to daily skin care or wrinkles is unknown, but it is probably a
good antioxidant for skin.

phytoestrogen. See plant estrogen.

phytol. Subcomponent of vitamin E and also a component of chlorophyll. It has antioxidant properties, but
there is limited research about phytol having any effect on skin.