Page 115 - Cultural Studies A Practical Introduction
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Consumer Culture and Fashion Studies         99

                  numerous knock - offs of designer handbags for women attest. They cost
                  very little and look exactly like the much more expensive originals. What
                  this suggests is that the value of things  –  how they look to others especially
                    –  becomes our own value, our own sense of worth. We feel better when
                  others look at us, envy us, and aspire to be as high status as us.
                     High - end designer fashion brings together art and economics. Desig-
                  ners seek minor differentiations of dress that continually distinguish the
                  clothing of an elite who can afford to spend a great deal of money on things
                  whose duration may be quite short from the mass market, ready - to - wear
                  clothing of everyone else. Because such high levels of creativity go into
                  designer clothes, they have a perfectly non - economic claim to superiority
                  and often set the example for mass market clothing. But popular clothing
                  culture also is a realm of creativity, and the two often vie with one another.
                  Punk clothing style established black as the color to imitate before
                  designers could catch up, and when designers decided longer dresses
                  were  “ in ”  as a way of displacing the mini - skirts of the 1960s, women in the
                  1970s refused to go along and chose  “ hot pants ”  instead. But designers
                  were successful in pillaging a gypsy style for women in the 1990s that
                  emphasized loose skirts with folds, dramatic dark color contrasts, sweater
                  jackets, and long scarves from the arts counterculture and turning it into
                  a mainstream style.
                     Consumer culture is necessarily bound up with economic life, and
                  given that the kind of economic life we humans have so far constructed
                  for ourselves is one that depends on a circle of production and con-
                  sumption in which the second term plays a crucial role in sustaining the

                  first (which in turn sustains life on earth through payment for work),
                  the link between consumption and economic life is worth attending to.
                  As usual with economics, a fair amount of self - interested unfairness
                  immediately grabs one ’ s attention, from the sweat shops of underpaid
                  laborers in Southeast Asia that produce clothing for high - income con-
                  sumers elsewhere to the underpaid deliverers of consumer services such
                  as Starbucks coffee in advanced economic settings like North America
                  and Europe. Something as apparently simple as sugar in English tea had
                  behind it a reality of African slavery in the sugar - growing region of the
                  world. And a struggle continues to establish  “ fair trade ”  rules that will
                  assist commodity growers in getting a fairer price on the world market
                  for their goods.
                     Advertising is central to consumer culture. It consists of a mixture of
                  rhetoric, theater, and visual design. It is rhetorical because it makes an
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