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270                             Handbook of Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres

            Modification of a cotton product to improve its strength often results in deteriora-
         tion or decline in other key functional characteristics. A classic example in this regard
         is moving from knit fabric to a woven fabric. This can certainly lead to higher fabric
         strength for a given weight of fibers and a given set of yarn properties, but this comes at
         the expense of losing the numerous tactile characteristics of the knit apparels, as
         described earlier, the trade-off between twisting-for-comfort and twisting-for-strength.
         Another common example is the case of mercerized cotton. Mercerization is done via
         chemical treatment of cotton fibers (in roving or yarn form) using about 20%e25%
         caustic soda (NaOH) in room temperature while the fiber strand is under specified
         tension. The purpose of this common treatment is to increase the luster and the tensile
         strength. To make matters additionally cotton-unlike, the natural surface of the fiber
         strand with its fuzzy feeling is eliminated by removing the protruding surface fibers
         via a singeing process. This process may improve the appearance of the cotton product
         tremendously, but this will have to be at the expense of the natural feel of cotton. More
         examples can be mentioned on the trade-off between strength (or durability) and other
         functional attributes that will take another chapter to cover. The point here is that the
         durability of cotton products enhanced by fiber and yarn strength should be achieved
         through careful engineering of the product to avoid any masking of the touch and feel
         and nature of cotton.

         References


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