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270 Handbook of Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres
Modification of a cotton product to improve its strength often results in deteriora-
tion or decline in other key functional characteristics. A classic example in this regard
is moving from knit fabric to a woven fabric. This can certainly lead to higher fabric
strength for a given weight of fibers and a given set of yarn properties, but this comes at
the expense of losing the numerous tactile characteristics of the knit apparels, as
described earlier, the trade-off between twisting-for-comfort and twisting-for-strength.
Another common example is the case of mercerized cotton. Mercerization is done via
chemical treatment of cotton fibers (in roving or yarn form) using about 20%e25%
caustic soda (NaOH) in room temperature while the fiber strand is under specified
tension. The purpose of this common treatment is to increase the luster and the tensile
strength. To make matters additionally cotton-unlike, the natural surface of the fiber
strand with its fuzzy feeling is eliminated by removing the protruding surface fibers
via a singeing process. This process may improve the appearance of the cotton product
tremendously, but this will have to be at the expense of the natural feel of cotton. More
examples can be mentioned on the trade-off between strength (or durability) and other
functional attributes that will take another chapter to cover. The point here is that the
durability of cotton products enhanced by fiber and yarn strength should be achieved
through careful engineering of the product to avoid any masking of the touch and feel
and nature of cotton.
References
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ASTM International: D 1557-01 Standard test methods for linear density of textile fibers, Annu
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