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Tensile failure of polyester fibers                                449

           rule-of-thumb, which defines the necessity to go to higher temperatures to achieve a
           new state, with the distribution of crystal size and perfection being shifted to higher
           values.
              To secure the results obtained by setting it is therefore essential that the maximum

           temperature used in subsequent thermal treatments is 15e20 C lower than the setting
           temperature. The temperature used in subsequent aqueous treatments under pressure

           should be roughly 30 C lower than the temperature of heat setting. This means that

           before high-temperature dyeing at 130 C, the material must be processed by heat

           setting at a temperature higher than 170 C, for instance at 180 C.

              The heat setting effect in PET is highly time-dependent. The rate of setting in-
           creases rapidly with increase of temperature. The structural and morphological
           changes due to heat setting are presented in the review (Gupta, 2002).
           13.3.3.1 Isotonic setting

           Peszkin and Schultz (1986) annealed PET fibers at temperatures ranging from 100 to
           200 C under a small tensile force. They observed that competition existed between

           chain-recoiling (shrinkage) and crystallization. The crystallization kinetics increases
           with higher temperatures and higher tension. Chain orientation also increases with
           tension (Peszkin and Schultz, 1986). Heat setting of PET fibers under a higher tensile
           force provokes crystallization in two stages (Lee and Schultz, 1993). In the first stage,
           nucleation starts and fibrillar crystallites grow as the fibers begin to elongate. Chain
           mobility in the amorphous phase is restricted gradually and reaches its asymptotic
           value. Concurrently, tensile modulus and tenacity increase markedly. In the second
           stage, a microstructure is created and the perfection of crystallites continues to
           increase. Fiber elongation during heat treatment reaches its asymptotic value. Simul-
           taneously, the increasing trend in tensile modulus is stopped and reaches its asymptotic
           value (Lee and Schultz, 1993).
              High-temperature (above 200 C), high-tension heat setting maintains a high level

           of orientation in the amorphous regions, hence a high fiber modulus and a relatively
           lower dyeing rate. The latter can be improved by reducing the heat setting temperature
           so that less crystallization occurs. If the fibers are heated with low tension, disorienta-
           tion of the oriented amorphous regions occurs and the fibers are left with low shrinkage
           forces (and modulus) but high dyeability.
              The three stage model of oriented PET structural changes during its isothermal crys-
           tallization was proposed in the work by Radhakrishnan and Kaito (2001). The first
           stage is thermodynamic relaxation, which occurs when the material is heated above
           its T g . The second stage is the structural change of the oriented amorphous structure,
           where the degree of orientation increases from the nearly isotropic state and the gauche
           conformation is transformed into the trans-conformation. A crystalline structure
           appears in the third stage, only after the orientation process is completed. The bundles
           of highly oriented tie chains in the amorphous phase (mesophase) are probably respon-

           sible for the first stage of crystallization (80e100 C); the less ordered or nonoriented
           chains are responsible for the second stage of crystallization at temperatures above

           140 C(Keum, 2003).
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