Page 188 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Automated laser cutting of textile materials 175

fabrics. The edge seal stops fraying and can eliminate a hemming or separate edge-
treatment operations in downstream manufacturing processes. The third advantage is
that as the cutting process is performed by only one tool, a laser beam, construction of
the laser cutter is less complicated, and its maintenance costs are lower, comparing with
knife cutters. The disadvantage is that laser cutters have higher cost than blade cutters.
The most traditional lasers used to cut textiles are in the 60–100 up to 200 W power
ranges (Aramid (Kevlar) is cut at approximately 400 W). Low-power laser cutters
(10–30 W) are good to cut light textiles (e.g. very light parachute materials and spin-
naker nylon). The lightweight fabrics are cut by laser faster than by blade cutters, and
low-power laser cutters are lower priced than the knife cutters. In reducing cutting
speed, the low-power laser cutters can also be used to cut thicker materials and multi-
ply spreads. However, the melted synthetic origin fibres may complicate multi-ply
cutting if the cut edges of several plies fuse together. The necessity to reduce cutting
speed processing of multi-ply spreads and problems with cut edges fusing are the
reasons why laser cutting is mostly used to cut single-fabric ply.
The high-power (200 W) cutters are appropriate to cut materials like sailcloth, in-
sulation materials, nonwovens, and other synthetics. They can incorporate a blade
cutting head integral with the laser head (see Section 9.6.2). The price of the cutter
and the cutting quality are dependent on extraction technology, motion system, and
the laser power of the cutter.
Gantry laser cutting systems are widely used to cut different kinds of technical
textiles for automotive and home interiors, banners, air ventilation, and many other
applications. Galvo laser systems are used for finishing technical textiles – engraving
and marking.

10.11 Laser cutting for apparel textiles

In processing apparel textiles, laser cutting has similar advantages as for technical
textiles. The only one advantage – sealing of cut edge – can become a disadvantage
in cutting apparel textiles. The melted hard edges of synthetic materials may irritate
the human skin getting in direct contact with it. Therefore, the gantry laser cutting
systems are mostly used in outwear processing. As melted fibres can also fuse together
cut fabric plies, the laser cutting cannot fully support multi-ply cutting method, tradi-
tional for the apparel manufacturing. However, expected disadvantages depend on the
application and material. The more natural or sophisticated the material texture is, the
less problems may occur in a laser cutting process. The edge melting can be optimized
greatly in every concrete application.
The significant CAD/CAM development during the last years has raised the signif-
icance of a single-ply cutting method in garment manufacturing. Thanks to it, gantry
laser cutting systems are used in single-ply processing of intricate-pattern fabrics, dig-
itally printed fabrics, and narrow lace. Galvo laser cutting systems are widely used for
ready garment and fabric finishing. Because of their many advantages comparing with
traditional fabric decoration methods (see Section 10.6) and also low cost comparing
with gantry laser cutting systems, their importance and application are rising during
the last years.