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12 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

are specially numbered during the final stages of the cutting process to avoid any un-
intentional mixing up of the pieces (see Section 13.5).
The shade variations within one fabric roll (side-centre-side and end-to-end) are
usually the result of low-quality dying processes. Varying shades in different fabric
rolls may appear when rolls from different production batches are mixed up (objec-
tively, it is difficult to repeat exactly the same dying process several times) or again
may be a result of low-quality dying.

2.6.3 Colour fastness and fabric shrinkage after the washing
and fusing processes

The customer may require additional fabric inspection procedures, for example, to
determine likely colour fastness and fabric shrinkage after the washing and fusing
processes. Inadmissible levels of colour fastness influence garment use and may cause
problems to the garment user. Inadmissible levels of fabric shrinkage have a nega-
tive influence on the garment production process. Shrinkage problems appear during
the fusing (see Section 11.2), pressing, and other finishing operations, resulting in
changes to the dimensions of the components. The shrinkage value may be ignored if
inspection shows it to be less than 1%. If the shrinkage value exceeds 1%, the pattern
pieces will need to be corrected, and the predictable shrinkage amount is added to their
dimensions.
Shrinkage most often appears during the fusing process. Therefore, if special fab-
ric inspection is not carried out, the pattern pieces of fusible components are always
grouped in blocks with sufficient leeway to compensate for fabric shrinkage after fus-
ing, or special buffers may be created around each pattern piece of a fusible compo-
nent (see Section 3.7).

Further reading

Behera, B.K., 2015. Role of fabric properties in the clothing manufacturing process. In: Garment
Manufacturing Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9781782422327.
Das, S., Patnaik, A., 2015. Production planning in the apparel industry. In: Garment
Manufacturing Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9781782422327.
Nemes, I., 2016. Fabric shrinkage fusing material as the reason of raised material consumption,
V Naučno stručni skup “Tendecija razvoja i inovativni pristup u tekstilnoj industriji—
Dizajn, tehnologija i menadžment”, Serbia, Beograd, June 10, 2016.
Vijayan, A., Jadhav, A., 2015. Fabric sourcing and selection. In: Garment Manufacturing
Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9781782422327.
Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2012. Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials, first ed. Woodhead
Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9780857091345.
Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2015. Fabric spreading and cutting. In: Nayak, R., Padhye, R. (Eds.),
Garment Manufacturing Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN
9781782422327.
Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2017. Automation in spreading and cutting. In: Nayak, R., Padhye, R.
(Eds.), Automation in Garment Manufacturing. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN
9780081012116.