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254 5. Some worked examples arising from physical problems
where the surface boundary condition finally gives
and is arbitrary at this stage. For rightward propagation, we select
so that the characteristic variable becomes
which, with D = 1 (constant depth), recovers the standard result: Note
that, in this calculation, we have taken the evaluation at the surface to be on z = 1;
see below.
At the next order, equations (5.129) give
with
and
The boundary conditions at the surface, have been written by invoking
Taylor expansions, and so become the corresponding boundary conditions evaluated
on z = 1, valid as (and for sufficiently smooth surface waves). Again, this set
is fairly easily solved; the details are left as an exercise, but some of the intermediate
results are
and