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174    Advances in textile biotechnology


              increased protein stability and increased resistance to chemical and proteo-
              lytic degradation.


              8.3    Application of enzymatic treatments to
                     wool fi bres
              8.3.1 Wool fi bres

              Raw wool sheared from sheep contains a high level of grease which con-
              tains valuable lanolin as well as dirt, dead skin, suint, and vegetable matter.

              A typical Merino fleece contains about 13.6% wool wax, 3.1% suint and
              12.9% dirt (inorganic and organic) (Prins, 2009). The average yields of clean
              dry wool vary according to the breed, but generally Merino types yield
              60–70% of clean wool after processing.

                Electron scanning microscopy shows that the wool fibre is covered by a
              thin sheath of overlapping scales like the slates on a roof (Fig. 8.1). These
              scales are responsible for the felting and shrinkage that occurs during laun-
              dering. This is due to the differential frictional effect (DFE) caused by the
              difference in friction between μ a  (friction coefficient when rubbing in the

              against-scale direction) and  μ w  (friction coefficient when rubbing in the

              with-scale direction). Finishers can make use of this property in a process
              known as milling to achieve consolidation of the fabric and make it fuller
              and denser. On the other hand, felting shrinkage can be detrimental to the

              performance of wool fabrics. Shrink-resist finishing is required to give wool
              fabrics and garments machine washability.






















                                                         10μm
                            EHT = 12.00 kV  WD =   10 mm  Mag =  1.75 K X
                            3μm          Photo No. = 1147  Detector = SE1
                     8.1  Scanning electron micrograph of wool fi bres.




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