Page 128 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

124 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

defined based on the anthropometric database of the United States of America. One
couldn’t argue that when garment specification measurements are done using forcing
data, it is not surprising that there are unhappy shoppers. But why is it so in America?
To get a better understanding, we reviewed the evolution of sizing and the size des-
ignation systems from the United States of America and those of its neighboring coun-
try, Canada. We provide details as to why Canadians’ sizing system was calqued on
US anthropometric data. Moreover, we provide information such as the time period
when the national survey was conducted and the sample used.

5.2.1 The development and evolution of size designations in
North America
Until the 18th century, women’s garments were custom-made (Fan et al., 2004). The
fit was personalized (Workman, 1991). The first nested patterns for women’s wear
appeared in 1820–40 (Kidwell, 1979) and the grading systems years later (Bryk,
1988). Ebenezer Butterick and James McCall were the first to market nested patterns
in the 1860s, initiating the ready-to-wear industry (Burns and Bryant, 2002). The key
measurement points were defined then as the bust, selected because it had proven to be
useful for Europeans (Workman, 1991), and the waistline. Paper patterns were graded
on the bust circumference for blouses and dresses, and the waistline was used for the
skirts (Kidwell, 1979 as cited in Schofield and Labat, 2005). Most bodice measure-
ments were based on the bust. During that era, a proportional grading system was used
in patterns to create different sizes. Workman (1991) shows that the basic sample was
graded at “36,” which meant that it was suitable for a 36-in. (91.44cm) woman’s bust.
It was then adjusted with 2-in. (5.08cm) linear decrements or increments (Ashdown,
1998). The proper fit of the finished garment depended on the dressmaker’s skill
(Schofield and Labat, 2005).

5.2.2 Size designation according to the identification numbers
in catalogs
Among the first to offer and distribute garments, having a big impact on today’s size
designation, were catalog distributors. Thus at the very beginning of the 20th century,
the Sears Roebuck and Co. Catalog offered garments with size designations ranging
from 32 to 42. These were referring to 32-in. (81.28cm) to 42-in. (106.68cm) bust
circumference (Workman, 1991). In addition, it stated that a garment with a 32-in.
(81.28cm) bust size designation should be suitable for young ladies of 14years of
age; a 34-in. (86.36cm) size designation should be suitable for young ladies aged
16years, and a 36-in. (91.44cm) size designation should be suitable for young ladies
of 18years (Sears Roebuck and Co. 1902 Catalogue, 2002). It also specified that these
garments were suitable for young ladies since the construction was different from
those for women (Workman, 1991). They also associated 14-, 15-, and 16-in.
(35.5, 38.1, and 40.6cm, respectively) neck measurements to the bust measurements.
A 14-in. neck, for example, should be equivalent to a 32–34-in. bust. One should know