Page 131 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Apparel size designation and labeling 127

of those engaged in producing or preparing specifications for patterns and ready-to-wear gar-
ments. The measurements given in this standard are body, not garment, measurements.
2. To provide the consumer with a means of identifying her body type and size from the wide
range of body types covered and enable her to be fitted properly by the same size regardless
of the price, type of apparel, or manufacturer of the garment (US Dept. of Commerce, 1958,
p. 1).

The CS215-58 reports the scopes as follows: four classifications of women: “misses,”
“women,” “half sizes,” and “junior.” This was followed by groups defined as “short,”
“regular,” and “tall.” Then, again with four subgroups within each of these groups:
“bust-hip,” “slender,” “average,” and “full.” The report itself proposed various pos-
sible applications, definitions of the measurement points, measuring methods, sizing
charts, and the percentage of women in each of these classes. The size number and
symbols were combined to make the complete size designation. For example,
“14T ” would refer to a size 14 bust, T for tall in height, and “ ” for slender hip
type, whereas a size designation of “14R” would mean size 14 bust (with its under-
lying measurements) and R for regular in height and an average hip type or again “14S
+,” which would refer to a size 14 bust, S for short in height, and “+” for full hip type.
One last detail of the report was that the junior classification was based upon inter-
polations of portions of the data used in the development of the misses’ classification
and therefore has traditional odd numbers for size designations. So instead of referring
to a size 14 as for misses’, it would be a junior size 13. It was then recommended that in
order to assure purchasers that garments conform to this system, such garments be
identified by a sticker, tag, or a hanger or other label carrying the type of information
presented earlier: 14T or 14R or 14S+. Soon after the CS215-58 was developed,
several countries built their sizing standards or published reports on the subjects.
The BS1345 of the British Standards Institution was published in 1945; a survey
by the British Board of Trade stated the need for 126 sizes to cover its female pop-
ulation. In 1950 the DS923 of Denmark Standards Association came out with similar
recommendations. In 1954 an anthropometric study was conducted by the Polish
Academy of Science. Between 1954 and 1959 the United Kingdom provided its report
on the anthropometric measurements of military personnel. In 1957 the USSR con-
ducted a survey, etc. Canada was no exception in publishing its report, but it was based
on the American population survey. In 1968, 17 countries formed the International
Organization for Standardization (ISO) and implemented the TC133 “technical
committee” entitled “sizing systems and designations.” They believed that commer-
cial standards would better serve their purpose if common to all countries. Back in the
United States, the Voluntary Product Standard (PS 42-70) for pattern development
and grading (with increments of 1in. in circumference and 1½ inches in height mea-
surements for each size) was updated and published in 1971 “as a revision of the
CS215-58” (US Dept. of Standards, 1971, p. 1). At the very beginning, it states
(par. 1) that:

The objective of a Voluntary Product Standard is to establish requirements that are in
accordance with the principal demands of the industry and, at the same time, are not
contrary to the public interest.