Page 209 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Fabric, seam and design applications in developing body-contouring jeans 205

Implementation of the correct seam gave different results on the elongation break and
force break. Hence the researcher had conducted multiple experimentations on seam
strength. Based on the experiment conducted by the researcher, it was found that the
curve seam and zigzag seam gave the highest elongation break (millimeters) and force
break (Newton), thus making them suitable to be applied in constructing body-
contouring jeans.

8.2.1.3 Fabric experimentation on fabric tensile strength
This process is crucial to indicate which fabrics were most suitable to be applied and to
determine the type of seam to be used. Three types of fabric that were experimented
were denim Lycra, Texas jeans (hard), and Texas jeans (soft). All of these fabrics will
be tested using tensile strength machine on their warp and weft direction. After the
fabric tensile strength test, the right fabric to be used on the body-contouring jeans
was found. The seams that were selected for this study were straight seam and
curve seam.
Testometric machine (STM566) in Fig. 8.1 was used to conduct tensile strength
test. Three types of fabrics involved denim Lycra, Texas jeans (hard), and Texas jeans
(soft) were tested. The main purpose in conducting this experiment was to determine
the fabric elongation break, millimeters (stretch ability), and fabric force break, New-
ton (strength). Fig. 8.2 shows how the fabric was affected when force is applied onto
the fabric during the experiment. The experiment was repeated five times for each
sample to get the mean reading. Data were collected based on the reading of the graph
and tabulated in a systematic table to make comparisons.

8.2.1.4 Seam strength test
Upon getting the result of the fabric elongation break, millimeter (stretch ability), and
force break (strength), the chosen fabric was tested out again to test the application of
seam on the chosen fabric. The two types of seams that were tested were straight seam
and curve seam. Fig. 8.2 shows how the seam was affected when force was being
applied.

Fig. 8.1 Testometric machine.