Page 280 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Sizing and fit for swimsuits and diving suits 275

simulation (Volino and Magnenat-Thalmann, 2000; Magnenat-Thalmann and Volino,
2005). CAD systems used in the clothing construction process for visualization
and prediction of clothing model behavior before the production of a real prototype
enable 3D simulation with application of physical and mechanical properties of par-
ticular textile material, intended for the production of a real garment model. Physical
and mechanical properties define deformation of cutting polygonal surface parts
according to particular real material, obtaining realistic visualization of computer
3D prototype (Igarashi and Hughes, 2002). Systems for objective evaluation of tex-
tiles and clothing that are evaluating properties at low loads, such as Kawabata Eval-
uation System (KES) or Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST), are usually used
for determination of physical and mechanical property parameters (Gers ˇak, 2001).
Important simulation parameters are elongation at maximum load in warp and weft
direction (load depends on the system), bending rigidity in warp and weft direction,
shear rigidity, thickness, and weight.
Physical and mechanical properties of neoprene material were applied to the sim-
ulation of diving suits. With regard to the specific elasticity of the neoprene, simula-
tions of patterns obtained directly from the body showed too high ease allowance. Suit
ease allowance can be tested using the transversal cross sections of the simulated
garment on body model where dimensions of both suit and body cross-section girth
can be obtained. Ease allowance is calculated as a difference between obtained girths.
Because of the neoprene high elasticity in the next step, it is necessary to perform the
scaling of patterns in the transverse direction, in accordance with the extensibility of
the material, Fig. 10.19. Usually a value of 5%–15% shrinkage is applied depending
on the position of segment in total pattern. The results of visualization of simulated
prototypes of both models after scaling confirmed appropriate fit of garment patterns.
Beside analysis of ease allowance, visualization of simulated prototype is also ana-
lyzed in terms of checking the positions of pattern cutting segments on the body
and particular length measurements, Figs. 10.20 and 10.21.

Fig. 10.19 Comparison of original and scaled diving suit pattern.