Page 366 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design
P. 366
358 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design
Female Male
Bust 18.5...21.0
25.0...31.3 Bust
7.0...12.2 Arm Arm 18.0...20.2
21.5...38.9 Waist Waist 17.7...20.4
5.5...16.4 Forearm
Forearm 16.8...18.9
25.0...25.2 High hip
Low waist 20.0...20.8
26.5...37.5 Hip
Hip 22.5...23.7
14.5...21.5 Thigh
Thigh 17.0...18.8
19.4...24.3 Midthigh
Midthigh
18.5...25.5 Knee 17.0...18.8
8.0...17.0 Calf Calf 18.3...19.5
9.0...11.3 Ankle
Fig. 13.15 Recommended maximum ease ranges, %.
(Abtew et al., 2018; Kuzmichev et al., 2018; Mengna et al., 2015), and software
(Abtew et al., 2018; Wang and Tang, 2010; Liu et al., 2017; Nakashima et al., 2016).
To design 3D garments, the connection between the virtual avatar and the clothes
should be established by means of the ease allowances. The calculation of “negative
ease” of a pattern block for compression garments is a complex scientific problem in
the case of the 2D!3D method, as was shown before.
For positive ease, it is possible to generate the patterns by flattening the parts of the
3D garment in a 3D-to-2D approach. The ease allowances are created like a gap
between the avatar and the inner surface of a woman’s dress (Mengna, 2015).
CAD Lectra DC3D and LooksTailorX were used as the methods for design of loose
and semiloose fitted garments, with positive eases on the base of a solid avatar. To
create a 3D garment with positive ease directly on the torso and the subpart of the
scanned body, the horizontal cross-sections can be obtained after a relative increase
of the original cross-sections of the individual avatar (Thomassey and Bruniaux, 2013;
Tao and Bruniaux, 2013). Garments for diving and cycling with zero ease allowances
are designed by flattening the parts of the avatar surface (Naglic et al., 2016; Liu
et al., 2016b).
Reviewed workflows of 3D designs cannot be used for creation of compression
garments with “negative ease,” since they do not consider the differences between the
garment dimensions and body measurements to obtain the required compression pres-
sure. In order to take this fact into account, the following three approaches can be used:
