Page 184 - Cosmetology

Cosmetic Ingredient

Dicitonary

A

Acacia farnesiana extract. A fragrant extract from a type of acacia tree. There is no research showing it to
have any benefit for skin

Acacia senegal. Herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties, but that is used primarily as a thickening
agent. See gums.

Accutane. Generic name: isotretinoin. A prescription-only drug derived from vitamin A, and which is taken
orally. It essentially stops the oil production in sebaceous glands (the oil-producing structures of the skin)
and literally shrinks these glands to the size of a baby's. This prevents sebum (oil) from clogging the hair
follicle, mixing with dead skin cells, and rupturing the follicle wall to create an environment where a
bacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) can thrive, which can result in pimples or cysts. Normal oil production
resumes when treatment is completed, and the sebaceous glands slowly begin to grow larger again, but
rarely as large as they were before treatment. "Because of its relatively rapid onset of action and its high
efficacy with reducing more than 90% of the most severe [acne] inflammatory lesions, Accutane has a role
as an effective treatment in patients with severe acne that is recalcitrant to other therapies". However,
Accutane is controversial for many reasons, principally because of its most insidious side effect: It has been
proven to cause severe birth defects in nearly 90% of the babies born to women who were pregnant while
taking it. Other commonly reported, although temporary, side effects of Accutane include dry skin and lips,
mild nosebleeds (your nose can get really dry for the first few days), hair loss, aches and pains, itching,
rash, fragile skin, increased sensitivity to the sun, headaches, and peeling palms and hands. More serious,
although much less common, side effects include severe headaches, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision,
changes in mood, depression, severe stomach pain, diarrhea, decreased night vision, bowel problems,
persistent dryness of eyes, calcium deposits in tendons, an increase in cholesterol levels, and yellowing of
the skin.

acerola fruit extract. Acerola contains vitamin C (See vitamin C). However, the dry acerola fruit and powder
are unlikely to be a good source of vitamin C because much of the vitamin C is destroyed during the drying
and processing

acetic acid. Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. It can be a skin irritant and drying to skin,
though it also has disinfecting properties.

acetone. Strong solvent that removes nail polish.

acetyl carnitine HCL. See L-carnitine.

acetyl glucosamine. Amino acid sugar and the primary constituent of mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic
acid. It is an agent that has good water-binding properties for skin. In large concentrations it can be effective
for wound healing. There is research showing that chitosan (which is composed of acetyl glucosamine) can
help wound healing in a complex. However, that is a few generations removed from the tiny amount of acetyl
glucosamine used in cosmetics. Further, there is no research demonstrating that wrinkles are related to
wounds. See L-carnitine.

acetyl glyceryl ricinoleate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

acetyl hexapeptide-3. Is a synthetically derived peptide that has been showing up in dozens of skin care
and makeup products, especially those claiming to have a muscle-relaxing effect similar to Botox injections.
Claims typically have to do with preventing muscle contractions when making facial expressions, thus
reducing the appearance of expression lines. The company selling acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name