Page 185 - Cosmetology

Argireline), Centerchem, is based in Spain. According to their Web site, "Argireline works through a unique
mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with
regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release." I strongly doubt
that any of that is true because there isn't a shred of published research substantiating any part of it.
However, even if it were vaguely true, that would not be good news for your body because you wouldn't
want a cosmetic ingredient without any safety data, efficacy documentation, or independent research
messing around with your catecholamines. Catecholamines are compounds in the body that serve as
neurotransmitters such as epinephrine, adrenaline, and dopamine. Epinephrine is a substance that prepares
the body to handle emergencies such as cold, fatigue, and shock. A deficiency of dopamine in the brain is
responsible for the symptoms of Parkinson's disease. None of that sounds like something you want a
cosmetic to inhibit or reduce.

We don’t know the long-term adverse effects of applying acetyl hexapeptide-3 to skin. If it really worked to
relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you’re using the products as directed). If all
the muscles in your face were relaxed from topical application of acetyl hexapeptide-3, you’d have sagging,
not youthful, skin. To date, there have been no further substantiated, peer-reviewed studies proving acetyl
hexapeptide-3 is a viable alternative to or replacement for Botox injections. For all the fear espoused by
companies featuring this peptide in their “works like Botox” products, there is considerably more efficacy,
usage, and safety documentation available for Botox.

Despite claims being made for acetyl hexapeptide-3 (argireline), there is a clinical study revealing that this
ingredient is not even remotely as effective as Botox in reducing wrinkles. It is also interesting to note, that
even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way shape or form!.

acetyl tributyl citrate. Related to citric acid and used as a plasticizer, most commonly in nail polish and
nail-hardening products. See citric acid.

acetylated castor oil. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

acetylated hydrogenated cottonseed glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.
See glyceryl ester.

acetylated lanolin. Emollient derived from lanolin. See lanolin.

acetylated lanolin alcohol. An ester of lanolin alcohol uses as an emollient and occlusive agent. An ester is
a compound formed from an alcohol and an acid with the elimination of water, and are common among
cosmetic ingredients.

acetylated palm kernel glycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl
ester.

Achillea millefolium. See yarrow extract.

acid. Anything with a pH lower than 7 is acid—above 7 is alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an
average pH of 5.5.

acne soap. Soaps that often contain very irritating ingredients in addition to harsh cleansers that, especially
when combined with other acne treatments, can super-irritate the skin. There is no reason to overclean the
skin, because breakouts have nothing to do with how clean your skin is! A study reported in Infection
demonstrated that "in the group using soap the mean number of inflammatory [acne] lesions increased….
Symptoms or signs of irritation were seen in 40.4% of individuals…." Furthermore, if the acne cleanser does
contain antibacterial agents, the benefit would be washed down the drain.

acrylate. See film-forming agent.

Acrylates Copolymer. See film-forming agent.

acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. See film-forming agent.

Actaea racemosa. See black cohosh.

active ingredient. The active ingredients list is the part of an ingredient label that must adhere to specific