Page 191 - Cosmetology

dismutase and ecatalase; and coenzymes such as alpha lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10. Other antioxidant
compounds include glutathione and methylsufonylsulfate.

So what do free-radical damage and antioxidants have to do with wrinkles or skin damage? No one is
exactly sure, but, theoretically, when free-radical damage originates from natural environmental factors and
fails to be cancelled out by antioxidant protection, then wrinkles appear. If we don't get enough antioxidant
protection, either from our own body's production, from dietary sources, or from other sources (including
antioxidants we put on our skin), free-radical damage continues unrestrained, causing cells to break down
and impairing or destroying their ability to function normally. Free-radical damage destroys collagen and
other skin components. There are problems, however, with the hope that stopping free-radical damage with
antioxidants can protect your skin, and these problems are that free-radical damage is constant and
extensive. How could you ever use enough antioxidants to stop it? How much is needed? How much
oxygen, sunlight, or pollution can you really keep away from all skin cells, or even some skin cells? How fast
do the antioxidants you apply to your skin get used up? Do they last 20 minutes, one hour, two hours, or
more on the skin? At this time, no one knows the answers to any of these questions for sure. Major
investigations are currently under way in this fascinating area of human aging (intrinsic aging) and sun
damage (extrinsic aging), factors that most unquestionably influence wrinkling. However, even though many
respected researchers are working on this issue, the research is still in its infancy, and suggesting anything
beyond that is sheer fantasy. See free-radical damage.

aorta extract. Obtained from hearts of animals. It is supposed to have rejuvenating properties for skin, but
this has never been proven in research of any kind. Much like any part of a human or animal body, the heart
tissue is a source of proteins, amino acids, and other water-binding agents for skin. Because of the concerns
regarding Mad Cow Disease, ingredients like these are best avoided in skin-care products.

apple cider vinegar. See vinegar.

apricot kernel. A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant.

apricot kernel oil. An emollient plant oil pressed from the seeds of apricots, and similar to other nonfragrant
plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

Aquaporin. A series of 10 different proteins that form water channels in living things to regulate the water
content of skin and other organs. Aquaporin 3 is found abundantly in the skin of humans and animals. In
relation to aquaporin 3, glycerol absorption and transportation through these “water channels” is
fundamental to preventing water loss and increasing skin’s elasticity.

arachidic acid. Derived from peanut oil and used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.

arachidonic acid. Produced from phospholipids and fatty acids. There is research showing that this is
potentially unsafe and mutagenic when used topically, though more study is needed to decide this
conclusively.

arachidyl alcohol. Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics.

arachidyl propionate. Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics.

Arachis hypogaea extract. Extract of the plant commonly known as the peanut. It can have emollient and
anti-inflammatory properties for skin, though peanut allergy is one of the five most frequent food allergies in
children and in adults.

arbutin. A hydroquinone derivative isolated from the leaves of the bearberry shrub, cranberry, blueberry,
some mushrooms, and most types of pears. Because of arbutin's hydroquinone content, it can have
melanin-inhibiting properties. Although the research describing arbutin's effectiveness is persuasive (even if
almost all of the research has been done on animals or in vitro), concentration protocols have not been
established. That means we just don't know how much arbutin it takes to have an effect in lightening the
skin. Moreover, most cosmetics companies don't use arbutin in their products because there are Shiseido-
owned patents controlling its use in skin-care products for skin lightening. To get around this problem, many
cosmetics companies use plant extracts that contain arbutin, such as bearberry leaf extract. There is limited
research, mostly animal studies or in vitro, showing that the plant extracts that contain arbutin used in skin-
care products have any impact on skin. Whether or not these extracts are effective in the small amounts
present in cosmetics has not been established.