Page 193 - Cosmetology

skin.

Astaxanthin. See Astaxanthin Extract.

Astaxanthin Extract. A carotenoid (carotene pigment) found in plants, algae, and fish, particularly salmon.
It functions as an antioxidant. It has a strong ability to destroy unstable oxygen molecules. Preliminary
research suggests that Astaxanthin may be able to prevent the oxidative damage to skin after exposure to
UVA radiation.

Astragalus membranaceus. Scientific name for the Chinese herb Huang-Qi, also known as milk vetch. See
milk vetch.

Astragalus sinicus. See milk vetch.

atharanthus roseus. See Madagascar periwinkle.

ATP. See adenosine triphosphate.

Atractyloydes lancea root extract. Also known as Chinese Thistle Daisy, this root extract is used in
Chinese and Japanese alternative medicine for angiogenesis (the formation of new blood vessels) in type-2
diabetes because it contains beta-eudesmol. Some of its other components have been shown to have anti-
inflammatory properties as well. Whether or not this can be of benefit when the entire extract is applied
topically is unknown.

Avena sativa. Oat plant. Oat extract can have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Avens extract. Derived from the geum plant family; can be a skin irritant due to its tannin and eugenol
content.

avobenzone. Synthetic sunscreen ingredient (also known as Parsol 1789 and butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane) that can protect against the entire range of the sun's UVA rays.

avocado oil. Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

awapuhi. English name for wild ginger. See ginger extract.

Ayurveda. Alternative health practice historically developed in India. The term "Ayurveda" is based on two
Sanskrit words: ayu, meaning life, and veda, meaning science. According to an article in the Indian Journal
of Experimental Biology , the Ayurvedic system of treatments believes that the "living system is made of
panch-mahabuta, in the form of vata, pitta and kapha at the physical level and satwa, raja and tama at the
mental level. This covers the psychosomatic constitution and [is] commonly known as the Tridosh theory.
The imbalance in these body humours [mechanisms] is the basic cause of any type of disease
manifestation." Another interpretation of Ayurvedic theory, in Alternative Therapies Health Medicine (March
7, 2001), noted that "The body is composed of 3 body doshas, 3 mental doshas, 7 dhatus, and malas. The
harmony among the body doshas of vata (nervous system), pitta (enzymes), and kapha (mucus) and the
gunas, or mental doshas (which are human attributes: satogun [godly], rajas [kingly], and tamas [evil]),
constitutes health, and their disharmony constitutes disease. The management of illness requires balancing
the doshas back into a harmonious state through lifestyle interventions, spiritual nurturing, and treatment
with herbo-mineral formulas based on one's mental and bodily constitution." There is no research showing
how or if Ayurvedic principles of any kind can affect skin (though I assure you they do not prevent sun
damage—that, at least, is certain).

Azadirachta indica. See neem extract.

azelaic acid. Trade name Azelex; a component of grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is effective for a
number of skin conditions when applied topically in a cream formulation at a 20% concentration. For the
most part, azelaic acid is recommended as an option for acne treatment, but there is also some research
showing it to be effective for the treatment of skin discolorations. For example, "The efficacy of 20% azelaic
acid cream and 4% hydroquinone cream, both used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen,
against melasma was investigated in a 24-week, double-blind study with 329 women. Over the treatment
period the azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results; no significant treatment differences
were observed with regard to overall rating, reduction in lesion size, and pigmentary intensity. Severe side