Page 233 - Cosmetology

has its own pros and cons.

mandarin orange oil or extract. Primarily used as a fragrance; it can be a skin irritant. There is no research
showing it to have benefit when applied topically.

manganese gluconate. Mineral found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While manganese plays a
vital role in the processes of many body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on
skin, though it may be an antioxidant.

manganese violet. A coloring agent/additive permanently listed (as of 1976) by the FDA for use in cosmetic
products, including those designed for use around the eye.

Mangifera indica root. Derived from the mango tree; it can have antioxidant properties.

mannan. Any of a group of polysaccharides that have good water-binding, antioxidant, and anticancer
properties. See mucopolysaccharide and natural moisturizing factors.

mannitol. Component of plants that has potent antioxidant properties.

manuka oil. Derived from the New Zealand tea tree; the oil is similar to that of the Australian tea tree,
Melaleuca alternifolia. Manuka oil has antifungal and antibacterial properties.

mare milk palmitate. Protein derivative from female horses; can have water-binding properties for skin. See
natural moisturizing factors.

marigold. See calendula extract.

marionberry. Fruit that has potent antioxidant properties.

marjoram. Herb with a fragrant component used in cosmetics; can be a skin irritant.

marshmallow. See mallow.

Mastocarpus stellatus. See algae.

mate extract. See yerba mate extract.

Matricaria oil. See chamomile.

Matrix metalloproteinases. Also called MMPs, are a group of 23 different enzymes that cause substances
in the body to break down. Of the 23 types, MMP-1, also known as collagenase, is responsible for the
destruction of collagen. Generated primarily by unprotected sun exposure and the aging process, it is also
present in sebum (which may be a cause of acne).

One of the primary ways to decrease MMPs in skin, particularly MMP-1 is with smart sun behavior and well-
formulated sunscreens. But there is also research showing that epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of
green tea), retinoic acid (RA), eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though
this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids, to name a few, can inhibit
MMPs and increase TIMPs (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases; when these increase in skin, MMPs
decrease).

Matrixyl. See palmitoyl pentapeptide 3.

MEA. See alkyloamides and triethanolamine.

Meadowsweet extract. Can have anti-inflammatory properties.

Medicago sativa. See alfalfa extract.

Melaleuca alternifolia. See tea tree oil.

Melaleuca cajeputi oil. There is no research showing this oil, derived from the same plant family as tea tree