Page 238 - Cosmetology

Although none of these very good NMFs and lipids can permanently affect or change skin, they are great at
temporarily keeping depleted skin from feeling dry and uncomfortable. More important, all of these
ingredients, and many more, can help support the intercellular area of the skin by keeping it intact. This
support helps prevent surface irritation from penetrating deeper into the skin, works to keep bacteria out,
and aids the skin's immune/healing system. Selecting moisturizers of any kind with NMFs (whether they are
labeled as being antiaging, antiwrinkle, serums, lotions, or sunscreens) allows your skin to do its job of
repairing and regenerating itself without the impedances brought on when skin is suffering from dryness and
excess irritation.

neem extract or oil. From leaves of the neem tree; it has potential toxic effects, although it has also been
shown to have antimicrobial properties.

Nelumbo nucifera. See lotus seed extract.

neopentanate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient.

neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent.

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate. A mixture of neopentyl glycol (a film-forming agent and solvent) and
heptanoic acid (a fatty acid made from grapes), the compound functions as a non-aqueous skin-conditioning
agent and thickener.

neptune kelp extract. See algae.

neroli. See orange blossom.

neroli oil. Fragrant plant oil; it can be a skin irritant and sensitizer.

nettle extract. May have anti-inflammatory properties.

niacin. See niacinamide.

niacinamide. Also called vitamin B3, niacin, and nicotinic acid, this water-soluble ingredient is stable in the
presence of heat and light. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and
free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, as well as stimulate micro-circulation in
the dermis. 2% niacinamide was shown in one small study to be more effective than petrolatum (Vaseline)
for reducing water loss from skin and increasing its hydration levels. Procter & Gamble, whose Olay skin-
care line sells several products with niacinamide, published a double-blind study involving 50 women. The
subjects used a product containing 5% niacinamide (whether that amount is included in Olay’s niacinamide
products was not mentioned) for a period of 12 weeks. Results included an improvement in the appearance
of wrinkles, skin discolorations, less redness, a reduction in sallowness, and improved elasticity. Another
study seconded P&G’s findings that niacinamide is a helpful ingredient to address skin discolorations. It
appears that topical niacinamide has an inhibitory effect on the transfer of melanosomes to skin cells, thus it
can interrupt the process that causes irregular pigmentation to form.

In addition to niacinamide’s growing reputation as an excellent barrier repair and skin lightening agent, some
existing animal studies and in vitro studies on human fibroblasts (cells that produce connective tissue such
as collagen) have demonstrated that niacinamide may have a mitigating effect on skin tumors. Fewer
studies exist to examine niacinamide’s anti-acne properties. An older study compared a gel containing 4%
niacinamide with the prescription acne medicine Clindamycin and found it works just as well as the
prescription, but without the risk of antibiotic resistance.

Perhaps even more important is the potential for niacinamide as a cell-communicating ingredient.

niaouli oil. Extracted from a plant related to melaleuca. It has properties similar to those of tea tree oil,
making it a possible topical disinfectant. It is a weak antibacterial agent, but it can also be a potent skin
irritant.

nicotinamide. See niacinamide.

nicotinic acid. See niacinamide.