Page 263 - Cosmetology

tanning preparations that do not contain a sunscreen ingredient [are required] to display the following
warning: ‘Warning: This product does not contain a sunscreen and does not protect against sunburn.
Repeated exposure of unprotected skin while tanning may increase the risk of skin aging, skin cancer, and
other harmful effects to the skin even if you do not burn.

“To figure out how much protection a sunscreen provides, most consumers turn to a simple number: the
SPF, or sun protection factor, listed on the label. Studies show that most consumers understand that the
higher the number, the more the product protects the skin.”

The FDA then goes on to say: “Unfortunately, studies also show that people often have the mistaken notion
that the higher the SPF number of the sunscreen they use, the longer they can stay—and will stay—in the
sun.… Sunscreen should not be used to prolong time spent in the sun. Even with a sunscreen, you are not
going to prevent all the possible damage from the sun. Some of the newer research in the last several years
shows that [for] the sub-erythemal doses [exposure to the sun that does not cause reddening of the skin], as
little as one-tenth the energy needed to get a sunburn, starts the process of skin damage of one sort or
another.

“The public under-applies sunscreens by as much as half of the recommended amount, concluded a study
published in the Archives of Dermatology. Consequently, the study argued, consumers are receiving only
half of the SPF protection they believe the product provides.” This issue of liberal application has been
confirmed in other research as well.

superfatted soap. Soaps that contain extra oils and fats that supposedly make them more gentle for the
face. Basis Soap is one of the more popular superfatted specialty soaps.

superoxide dismutase. Enzyme considered to be a potent antioxidant in humans.

surfactant. Acronym for surface active agent. Surfactants degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend
soil, allowing them to be washed away, as laundry products do. I refer to these substances throughout my
writing as “detergent cleansing agents.” Surfactants and detergent cleansing agents are often used
interchangeably by chemists and researchers. Surfactants are used in most forms of cleansers and many of
them are considered gentle and effective for most skin types. There are several types of surfactants that can
be sensitizing, drying, and irritating for skin.

sutilain. See Bacillus subtilis.

sweet almond oil. Emollient oil. See natural moisturizing factors.

Symphytum officinale extract. See comfrey.

Szechuan pepper. May have antibacterial properties, but can also be a skin irritant.

Szechuan peppercorn. From a plant native to the Szechuan Province in China. It grows on trees, and so
differs from black pepper, which grows on climbing vines. Used extensively in Szechuan cooking, Szechuan
pepper is known for the "numbing" sensation it produces on the tongue. It is considered a counter-irritant.
See black pepper extract and oil and counter-irritant.
T

talc. A naturally-occurring mineral that is a silicate (any group of substances containing negative ions
composed of silicon and oxygen) of magnesium. Current, extensive research indicates there is no increased
risk of lung cancer when using talc-based products or for those involved in the manufacture of talc products,
although there is epidemiological evidence that frequent use of pure talc over the female genital area may
increase the risk of ovarian cancer. However, a study review in Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology
stated that “Talc is not genotoxic, [it] is not carcinogenic when injected into ovaries of rats… There is no
credible evidence of a cancer risk from inhalation of cosmetic talc by humans.”

tallow. Substance extracted from the fatty deposits of animals, especially from suet (the fat of cattle and
sheep). Tallow is often used to make soap and candles. In soap, because of its fat content, it can be a
problem for breakouts.

tamanu oil. From a tree native to Polynesia. It is reputed to have wondrous wound-healing properties, as
well as being a cure-all for almost every skin ailment you can think of, from acne to eczema to psoriasis, but
all of the miraculous claims are hinged on anecdotal, not scientific, evidence. There’s no harm in using this