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Wave Energy Chapter | 5 115


                       Individual sine waves         Amplitude versus frequency
                                                  7 6
               Water surface elevation (m)  5 0  T= 3.3 s  T= 10 s  Amplitude (m)  5 4 3 2
                10
                          T = 2.5 s
                                   T= 5 s





                −5
                  0    2    4    6    8   10      1 0 0  0.1  0.2  0.3  0.4
                            Time (s)                      Frequency (Hz)
                      Combined irregular wave      Energy density versus frequency
               Water surface elevation (m)  −5 5 0  Energy spectrum (m 2 /Hz) 400
                10
                                                300

                                                200

                                                100
                −10
                                                  0
                  0    2    4    6    8   10       0   0.1   0.2  0.3   0.4
                            Time (s)                      Frequency (Hz)
             FIG. 5.3  The concept of wave energy spectrum; decomposing an irregular wave into several sine
             waves.
             Each individual sine wave has a different frequency, and different wave energy,
             which contributes to the total wave energy. Fig. 5.3 shows an example. An
             irregular wave has been decomposed into four sine waves, with frequencies
             of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, and 0.4 Hz and varying amplitudes. The distribution of the
             amplitudes of these waves versus frequency is shown in this figure. The plot
             of the energy of these sine waves (or the square of the amplitude) with respect
             to the frequency represents the energy spectrum. In other words, the energy
             spectrum shows how the total energy of an irregular wave is distributed amongst
             various frequencies. If we use many sine waves to decompose the time series of
             an irregular wave, the difference between the frequencies of these individual
             sine waves approaches zero; this will lead to a continuous wave spectrum. A
             continuous energy density spectrum is defined as
                                                        ∞

                    E tot = E(δσ) + E(2δσ) + ··· + E(∞) =  E(σ)dσ      (5.24)
                                                       0
             where E(σ) is called the ‘energy density spectrum’, because it is energy per
             unit angular frequency (J/rad). Alternatively, the ‘variance density spectrum’
                    2
             (S(σ);m /rad) can be used to represent the distribution of energy with respect
             to frequency. It is defined as,
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