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In Situ and Remote Methods for Resource Characterization Chapter | 7 175


             hence the main focus of this section, is via surface following wave buoys.
             However, alternatives such as acoustic devices and pressure transducers are
             also available, and these are also discussed in this section. In Section 7.3,
             remote-sensing methods that are suitable for measuring wave properties are also
             introduced.

             7.2.1 Wave Buoys
             The most common way of characterizing waves in situ is via a surface following
             wave buoy. As with measurements of tidal elevations (Section 7.1.1), various
             networks of such wave buoys exist around the world, such as UK WaveNet
             (Fig. 7.13), or the Integrated Ocean Observing System (IOOS) in the US.
             However, wave networks are driven by factors other than quantifying the wave
             energy resource, such as coastal flood risk, and so there are many energetic
             regions that are not covered by wave buoys. For example, the west coast of
             Scotland, despite having the most energetic wave conditions around the United
             Kingdom, is sparsely populated by wave buoys. Therefore, within many wave
             resource assessment studies, it is necessary to deploy a project specific wave
             buoy.

             General Principals
             Wave buoys measure their vertical acceleration using an on-board accelerom-
             eter, supplemented by an artificial horizon that accurately defines the vertical
             [15]. Modern wave buoys both obtain their position and transmit their data via
             satellite communications. GPS (i.e. Differential Global Positioning System) is
             so accurate that wave buoys have now been developed which do not need an on-
             board accelerometer or other motion sensors [16]. This has several advantages
             over accelerometer-based buoys, including lower cost and lack of long-term
             calibration of the instrument. However, GPS-based wave measuring systems
             have significantly higher energy consumption, and require a constant connection
             with GPS satellites. This latter requirement can be challenging under rough
             sea conditions, including whitecapping waves and spray, which affects the
             reliability of the connection.
                In the case of a wave buoy that measures vertical acceleration of the device,
             the time series of water elevation can be calculated by integrating the vertical
             acceleration twice, that is, vertical displacement of the sea surface η is

                                               dw
                                       η =                              (7.6)
                                               dt
             where w is the vertical velocity.
                Wave directional information can be obtained by measuring either the slope
                                                                3
             of the sea surface or the horizontal motion (surge and sway )ofthewave
             buoy. The sea surface slope can be determined by including additional sensors
             (inclinometers) to detect the tilt of the buoy in two orthogonal directions, and a


             3. Vertical motion is defined as heave.
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