Page 393 - Handbook of Energy Engineering Calculations

The period τ and wave velocity c depend upon the wavelength and the depth
of water.
The relationship between wavelength and period can therefore be well
approximated by

or
Figure 3 shows an isometric of a two-dimensional progressive wave,
represented by the sinusoidal simple harmonic wave shown at time 0. Cross

sections of the wave are also shown at time 0 and at time ϑ. That wave is
expressed by

or

Note that the wave profile at time θ has the same shape as that at time 0,
except that it is displaced from it by a distance x = θ /τ = θ (n/m). Whenθ = τ,

x = λ and the wave profile assumes its original position.
Then,