Page 214 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Fusing of cut textile components 201

Face fabric

Face fabric and
interlining
Area where the interlining comes
into contact with the press
Fig. 12.9 Increased overlap of the interlining.

Fusing press upper
work surface
Interlining
Adhesive
Face fabric
Fusing press lower
work surface
Fig. 12.10 Strike through of the adhesive.

Fusing press upper
work surface
Interlining
Adhesive
Face fabric
Fusing press lower
work surface
Fig. 12.11 Strike back of the adhesive.

other, or through an incorrect selection of interlining. Some poor-quality interlinings
cause ‘strike back’ problems. The outcome is damaged to the surface of the face fabric
and contamination of the work surfaces by the adhesive resins.
The most common fusing problems, their causes, and possible prevention are sum-
marized in Table 12.1.

12.4.4 Shrinkage of the fused components

Most often, material shrinkage is discussed as the reason of further quality problems
of the ready goods. However, material shrinkage in the fusing process is the serious
problem that also complicates fabric cutting and joining process of the cut compo-
nents, reduces fabric utilization efficiency, and leads to fabric loss.
If the shrinkage level is not preestablished and taken into account, extensive shrink-
age can prevent the joining of fused fabric components with other parts of the garment.
The greatest shrinkage problems generally affect the long components, such as fronts
and facings. Their length may decrease by as much as 30 mm. In this situation, the
length of the other garment components also has to be decreased. This involves addi-
tional time and work, destroys the design of the style, and slows down and complicates
further production steps. Sometimes, the fused components may shrink in both length