Page 283 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

270 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Fig. 17.6 The placement of pattern pieces in a marker in one row (A) and in two rows (B).

17.5 Manual processing of narrow lace

17.5.1 Marker making on the fabric
The pattern pieces for repeated use are made from firm cardboard. A marker is made
onto the fabric at the beginning of the spreading process. It is created on the first lay
of lace that is placed on a firm paper layer. The marker is made from only half the
full set of pattern pieces (only one of two symmetrical pattern pieces are placed in
the marker) as the narrow lace is spread using the ‘face to face’ spreading modes (see
Figs 17.7–17.9 and Sections 4.3.4 and 4.3.5). For more effective utilization of the fab-
ric, several sizes of one style are usually combined in a marker. The number of articles
placed in the marker is determined by the number of pattern pieces and their size and
by the maximum practicable length of the spread. Pattern pieces with straight sides are
usually placed at the beginning and end of the marker, which permits the most efficient
use of the fabric (see Fig. 17.6A). Depending on the pattern, the width of the lace, and
the sizes of the components, the pattern pieces may be placed in the marker in one or
two rows (see Fig. 17.6). During the marker-making process, the placement of metal
pins, to coordinate the pattern in all the plies of the spread, is also determined. The
pins are fixed under the first fabric ply at key points of the pattern. Depending on the
pattern, they can be used along either one or both sides of the lace. A larger number of
pins are needed to coordinate the pattern in larger components. They must be placed
so that they will not impede the subsequent cutting process.
The length of the marker depends on the number of pattern pieces placed within it
and on the efficiency of the fabric usage. It is advisable not to make markers longer

Back

Face

Back
Fig. 17.7 Spreading mode ‘face to face in both directions’ (zig-zag) used to spread lace up to
10 cm wide.