Page 284 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Marker making, spreading, and cutting of narrow lace 271

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Face

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Fig. 17.8 Spreading mode ‘face to face in both directions’ (zig-zag) used to spread wide lace.

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Face

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Fig. 17.9 Spreading mode ‘face to face in single direction’ cutting the fabric off at the end of
every ply.

than 3.5 m. The marker is not fixed onto the fabric ply and is usually a temporary de-
vice to determine the sequence of pattern pieces and the length. The number and size
of each pattern piece in the marker is marked on the edges of the first paper ply. This
written information is later used by a cutting operator who replaces the pattern pieces
back on top of the prepared spread before cutting. When the marker is finished, the
pattern pieces are removed from the first fabric ply. They are added to the prepared and
folded spread at the end of the spreading process (see Fig. 17.12).

17.5.2 The spreading process
A roll of lace is fixed on a vertical fabric feeder at the beginning of a spreading table
(see Fig. 17.10). As the lace is moved over the table, the roll revolves and rewinds the
fabric. A single-layer paper ply that has to be slightly wider than the lace is laid par-
allel to the edge of the table at the beginning of the spreading process. This improves
the moving of the prepared spread, and the edges of the paper are used to write down
the sequence of pattern pieces in the marker.
The ‘face to face’ (see Figs 17.7–17.9) spreading modes are used to obtain pre-
cisely coordinated patterns on all the symmetrical components. Fabric plies are spread
with a smooth, tension free surface onto metal pins to coordinate the pattern precisely
in all the fabric plies.
In the spreading of narrow lace (up to 10 cm wide), the pattern is only coordinated
along its edges. The ‘face to face in both directions’ (zig-zag) spreading mode (see
Section 4.3.5) may be used, folding the fabric at the end of every ply (see Fig. 17.7).