Page 292 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

P. 292

Cutting and spreading of textiles 18

with pile

18.1 Introduction

Fabrics with pile may be divided in two groups: those with a low-cut pile (velvet,
corduroy, and plush) and those with a high-cut pile – above 10 mm (artificial fur). The
length of the pile determines the direction in which the marker is placed on a fabric
and the spreading and cutting principles that are used.

18.2 Marker making for styles made from materials
with pile

Markers for fabrics with low- and high-cut pile may be created manually or automated
way, and the pattern pieces are positioned in a single direction (see Fig. 18.1). The
pattern pieces must be placed close to each other, leaving a minimal fabric allowance
around them. The direction of the nap on a garment and the direction in which the
marker is placed on a fabric depend on the length of its pile:
The nap must be placed facing downwards on garments made from fabrics with a high-cut
●
pile (see Fig. 18.2A). The fabric will then have a smooth texture and a lighter colour tone
with a silver cast sheen.
The nap must be placed facing upwards on garments made from fabrics with a low-cut pile
●
(see Fig. 18.2B). The fabric will then have an apparently rougher texture, and the colour tone
will be deeper, richer, and darker.

18.3 The spreading and cutting of fabrics with
low-cut pile

The traditional ‘face up in a single direction’ spreading mode cannot be used because
the pile causes the fabric plies to slip over each other (see Fig. 18.3), which impedes the
spreading and cutting processes. To avoid this problem, the ‘face to face in a single
direction’ spreading mode (see Section 4.3.4) is used. The face side pile of two plies
then cling together (see Fig. 18.4), so preventing the slippage, which would occur if
the spreading was done with the face sides up. The fabrics are laid in multi-ply spreads
and may be cut by manual or automated cutting equipment.

287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297