Page 297 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

284 Glossary

D
Dead heading the transportation of a fabric ply or the entire roll above a spreading table with-
out laying fabric.
Die cutting cutting process carried out by fixed unchangeable dies, metal bands or pieces of
metal in the shape of the perimeter of the cut components.
Digitally printed fabrics the textiles printed using ink jet printing method.
Discontinuous fusing press a fusing press that performs sequential, one-at-a-time fusing of
components.
Dividing of a spread into smaller parts the first step of manual cutting process during which
large-size spreads are divided into smaller parts using movable cutting machines.
Drag knife a knife with a slanting blade that during cutting process is dragged along the profile
of the cut component.
Drill a tool used to perforate a material and create a round hole.
Drill marks round holes placed in the area of cut components to show ends of darts and place-
ment points of ‘put-on’ components (patch pockets, flaps, and others).
E
Embroderie anglaise (French, “English embroidery”) a form of whitework embroidery in
which different shape holes are cut in the material, and the cut edges then overcast. The
holes are grouped in a pattern that is further delineated by simple embroidery stitches on the
surrounding material.
End catcher a device used with a spreading machine to fix the end of the laid material ply not
allowing it to move from its right position.
Engraving by laser the laser beam physically removes the part of material surface and creates
a cavity on it, noticeable visually and in touch.
Extraction system special automated system to draw away the smoke particles and soiling
created in the laser cutting process.

F
Fabric faults (flaws and defects) imperfections in the fabric. Divided in general defects; yarn
defects in a woven fabric; defects in the weft direction; defects in the warp direction; defects
due to or apparent after dyeing, printing, or finishing; and defects of or associated with the
selvedges (ISO 8498:1990).
Fabric feeder a stand with a horizontal axis on which the fabric roll is fixed to rewind it during
spreading process. The stand may be fixed on the table or on a wall (at the end of the spread-
ing table) or put just next to the spreading table.
Fabric feed system the part of a spreading machine that rolls a material from a fabric setting
bar or a special cradle and takes it down to the spreading table. It controls loading, unload-
ing, threading, or rewinding of fabrics and performs adjustable or automatic control of ma-
terial feeding speed and measurement of roll/material length.
Fabric shrinkage dimensional changes of a material resulting in decrease in one or more
dimensions, that is, the length or the width.
Fabric specification a document characterizing delivered fabrics. It includes the following
information: a fabric article, a colour number and its description, the number of delivered
rolls (pieces), the footage in every roll, and the total footage.
Face the correct or better-looking side of a fabric.
Face fabric/material textile material used to obtain the main components placed on a face side
of a garment.