Page 31 - Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

18 Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

3.4.1.2 Establishing the marker processing time

The yet uncreated markers are classified by their importance depending on the number
of sizes in a marker, lays in a spread, and garment pieces produced from the marker.
More time to find the best fabric consumption is given to progress more important
markers. Marker progressing time can be determined as follows:

Automatically: the program distributes the time for each marker considering the markers
●
size.
Semiautomatically: the user can indicate how much time he wants the program to spend for
●
each marker.
3.4.1.3 Performing marker calculations
Getting ready markers back from CAD, the program obtains the exact length and the
efficiency of every performed marker. The fabric amount needed to produce the order
is calculated now using the data of marker's length. The available info is also used to
calculate statistics regarding average fabric use per product, per fabric type or total
fabric input, total average efficiency, etc.

3.4.1.4 Spreading planning

Trying to respect the maximum number of fabric plies in the lay, program generates all
spreads. Fabrics with similar properties are grouped together for one spread to reduce
spreading time. If disproportioned number of layers (very small number) appears for
separate spreads, the program can make automatic balancing.

3.4.1.5 Processing of manufacturing reports
During and at the end of planning process, several reports could be generated:
marker making, spreading and cutting instructions, and fabric use reports. To avoid
mistakes, barcode scanning can be used to deliver data for automated spreading. The
barcode can be used also to load a marker for a cutting process. Fabric report is send
to warehouse to know how much fabric has to be taken to spreading. It can also go
down to a roll level. Planning then will be done for every roll separately, finding its
best usage.

3.5 General characteristics of the marker-making process

If high-quality components are to be cut, all the specific qualities of fabric throughout
its length and within each roll must be taken into account. Only the general qualities
of a fabric can be determined from a sample – the thickness, width, pattern, nap, and
width of the selvedge. Specific qualities of the fabric such as changes in width, differ-
ing colour shades, and faults can only be recorded after an inspection of all the fabric
rolls used in a particular order. As a result, the preparatory operations to obtain the
necessary data prior to marker making are very important.