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9
Evaluation of pattern block

for fit testing
V.E. Kuzmichev
Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, Ivanovo, Russian Federation

9.1 Introduction

Among all the factors that influence consumers’ demands, habits, and satisfaction, the
fit is the most essential in determining the quality and sales volume of the product.
Consequently, the achievement of good clothing fit is the pivotal criterion for pattern
makers. Clothing fit is the indicator by which to judge design, construction, tailoring,
and production, which are integrated with comfort, clothing appearance, pattern, etc.
Generally, a good fit of clothing signifies objectively acceptable numeric indicators
established by the producers, on the one side, and subjectively satisfactory appearance
and wearing comfort, such as clothing pressure, ease allowance, etc., demanded by the
consumers, on the other side. Two terms are used to describe the quality of clothes: fit
and balance.
The first term, fit, is described psychologically and physiologically by a number of
aspects: thermophysiological comfort, sensorial comfort, body movement comfort,
and aesthetic appeal (Li, 2001). Fit plays an important role in clothes design, as it sig-
nificantly affects the appearance and comfort of clothes and describes the concor-
dance between body measurements and clothes dimensions and the total look of
the system evaluated (LaBat and DeLong, 1990).
Acceptable values of ease allowances which are designing in pattern block of dif-
ferent garment styles should prevent the misfit arising (Surikova et al., 2017).
Many scholars have extensively researched the fit of clothing and have found that a
well-designed pattern block, using 3D simulation and bodyscanning technologies, is
the foundation of many different kinds of properly fitting clothes (Naglic et al., 2016;
Lin and Wang, 2016; Wang et al., 2014). To obtain clothing fit in accordance with
body morphology, the processes of body classification and pattern block shaping
should both be explored more carefully. Fit should be considered as an important fac-
tor to evaluate the rationality of body classifications and pattern block making
(Beazley, 1997). Well-fitted garments mainly rely on accurate pattern making.
The second term, balance, expresses the best situation, which occurs when the
weight, size, and location of clothing and its parts are spread in such a way around
the body that they do not destroy the harmonic view of the system in total. The term
balance is used to find the numeric indicators to predict the fit before clothes
production.

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