Page 227 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 221

(A) (B)

Fig. 9.1 Examples of imbalance when the width of body and clothes on waist and hip levels is
not adequate for male (A) and the front length is shorter than corresponding body measurement
for female (B). BL, WL, HL are, respectively, bust, waist, and hip levels. BNP, SNP, FNP are,
respectively, back, shoulder, and front neck points. SP is shoulder point. BP is bust point. APB,
APF are, respectively, armpit back and front points.

larger than the body measurement, soft folds (vertical or horizontal) will arise. Both
kinds of folds destroy the harmonic appearance of the clothes. The defects of the second
group take place due to imbalance. If the dart value (breast, shoulder) is not sufficient,
creases that look like a handheld fan will arise around the bust point BP or the blade
point BLP; the cause is a wrongly calculated bearing balance. If the vertical dimensions
of the pattern block are not equal to the body measurements, sloping arch soft folds and
stress folds can arise due to vertical or horizontal imbalance.

9.4 Ease allowance

The amount of ease allowance indicates the positioning of the clothing around the
body in space. Traditionally, in the pattern block-making process, the ease allowance
is the positive or negative difference between two values: body measurements and the
corresponding dimension of the pattern block or RTW clothes. The acceptable inter-
vals of ease allowances will lead to well-fitting clothing of the desired type and style
made using certain textile materials.

9.4.1 Kinds of ease

A variety of sizes, styles, and silhouettes can be achieved by means of an unlimited
combination of ease allowances and configurations of pattern block lines. To calculate
an ease, measurements should be taken on the anthropometrical level of the human