Page 229 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 223

(3) comfort component between the body and the inner layer of clothes, which is important for
heat balance and vapor movement to the outside;
(4) friction component, which should allow the clothes to move on the human body, provide
sufficient space for body shape and its movements, and take into account the influence of
mechanical properties of fabrics (Chen et al., 2008);
(5) design component, for achieving the desirable outline shape in accordance with the fashion
trends and human body sizes. The design component very strongly depends on several fac-
tors, such as style of clothes, body sizes (fullness or drop), textile material properties (thick-
ness, rigidness, draping, etc.), total aesthetic view of the system “body-garment” in which
the morphological features of the body should be in harmony with the outline shape of the
garment and should express fashionable or other trends. Due to different criteria of design,
this ease validates the applicability of combinations of clothing styles, volumes, and body
measurements (Surikova et al., 2017). Fig. 9.2 shows the variants of acceptable combina-
tions of factors that might be taken into account before choosing the design ease to bust
girth E BG for women’s clothing: X, H, and A silhouettes in tightly fitted, semifitted, slightly
fitted, full, extra full styles; kinds of clothing; and bust girth.
As Fig. 9.2 shows, by variation of E BG , the applicable types and styles of clothes for
different body sizes are addressed. For example, for women whose bust girth is larger
than 100cm, dresses with design ease allowance more than 2cm aren’t recommended,

Fig. 9.2 Variants of acceptable design ease E BG in accordance with clothes style and body size
(the acceptable variants of combination of ease allowances and bust girth are highlighted)
(Surikova et al., 2017).