Page 233 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 227

Table 9.4 Ease in women’s clothes (Gill, 2015; Erwin et al., 1979; Liechty et al., 2010;
Holman, 1997; Baezley and Bond, 2003; Palmer and Pletsch, 1995; Creative Publishing
International, 2005; Myers-McDevitt, 2009; Keiser and Garner, 2008; Gioello and Berke,
1979; Cock, 1981; Cloake, 2000; Betzina, 2003)
Clothes style

Ease Close- Loose- Very loose-
allowance fitted Fitted Semifitted fitted fitted
To bust girth 0–7 5–11 7–18 12–23 18–35
E BG
To waist girth 1–4 2–7.5 7.5–10 10–15 –
E WG
To hip girth 0–5 0–10 5–11.5 10–15.5 12–35
E HG

Fig. 9.3 Basic diagram for E AHD and E AG for women’s dresses from 1950 to 2005 (A) and E AHD
and E 0.5BW for women’s blouses from 2000 to 2005 (B).

horizontal (E AG , E 0.5BW ) and vertical (E AHD ) directions in women’s clothes. Knowing
these mathematical relations, the possibility of correctly choosing the ease combina-
tions and creating of CAD are becoming a reality.
Besides main body measurements, the pattern block-making process needs addi-
tional measurements, which also are adapted to clothing style by means of eases. This
additional database includes the following eases:
– an ease to neck width E NW (the minimum value is 1cm);
– an ease to neck height E NH ;
– an ease to shoulder width E SW ;
– an ease to back length E BL ;
– an ease to BP height E BPH ;
– an ease to the distance between BP E BP ;
– an ease to arm length E AL ;
– an ease to wrist girth E WG ;