Page 230 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

224 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

because these dresses will have many wrinkles and folds. Fig. 9.2 shows the limita-
tions of some styles applied.
All components named can be taken into account and combined during the calcu-
lations, in the following order:
(1) minimal physiological ease E min.ph \ (E stat , E dyn ,E heat , E air ) includes four components that
provide ergonomic concordance between the body and clothes in static and dynamic pos-
tures and wearer comfort. By means of a fuzzy model, a personalized ease allowance could
be generated in accordance with the key body positions and the wearer’s movements, per-
mitting further improvements in the wearer’s fitting perception (Chen et al., 2008);
(2) minimal ease E min \ (E min.ph , E tm ) includes the minimal physiological ease E min.ph and the
sum of all textile material thicknesses used in the clothing;
(3) design ease E D ¼E i E min provides the final outline shape of the clothing. E D shows the
increasing of clothes dimensions under the smallest anthropometrical shell that can cover
the human body. The value of E D is the aesthetic indicator in each period of costume history
and presents fashion trends in the pattern-making process, with colors, materials, and
decoration.
The values of minimal ease E min and design ease E D depend on clothes functionality.
The common equation for calculating E i is

E i ¼ E min + E D (9.1)

Let’s study the process of choosing each component and calculating E i (Kuzmichev
et al., 2018).
E min can be calculated in two ways:

E min ¼ E dyn + E tm (9.2)

E min ¼ E air + E tm (9.3)
To design traditional classical clothes such as coats, suits, jackets, and dresses, it is
necessary to calculate only the ease E tm ; others eases can be taken from published
tables or other resources. Table 9.1 shows the values of E tm and air gaps that should
be taken into account to calculate E 0.5BG .
Before designing new kinds of clothes or clothes with special functions—for exam-
ple, an astronaut’s overalls—all components should be calculated or found experi-
mentally from the beginning. The values of E min for basic width (back, armhole,
front), girth (waist, hip, arm), and armhole depth are shown in Table 9.2.

Table 9.1 Components of ease to bust girth E 0.5BG including E tm and air gaps (cm)
Clothes Thickness of material Air gap E tm

Women dress 0.05–0.1 0.1–0.3 0.4–1
Men suit, women jacket 0.25–0.3 0.6–0.8 2.4–3.5
Coat 0.35–0.45 0.9–1.1 2.8–3.5