Page 231 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Evaluation of pattern block for fit testing 225

Table 9.2 Minimal eases E min for clothes
E min (cm)
Ease allowance Women dress Men suit, women jacket Coat

E 0.5BW 0.5–0.7 1.0–1.5 1.5–2
E AHW 1.7–2 3.0–3.5 3.5–4
0–0.5 1.0–1.5 2–2.5
E 0.5FW
1.7–2 2.5–3 3.5–4.5
E AHD
1.5–2 2–2.5 3.5–4.5
E 0.5WG
1.5–2 2–2.5 3.5–4.5
E 0.5HG
3–3.5 4.5–5 6–6.5
E AG
E D must not be smaller than E min , to guarantee comfort:
(9.4)
E D E min
The combination of different eases while designing in vertical and horizontal direc-
tions creates the final outline shape, silhouette, dimensions, and proportions of
clothes, which finally influence the fit and balance. The values of the eases should
be correlated one to another to achieve an aesthetic, well-fitted, and balanced system
of “body-clothes.” This combination depends on the fashion.
The ease allowance relating to textile materials varies because the properties are
many and lead to modifications of the pattern block to maintain a good fit. Thus, a
patternmaker should estimate how the clothing styles are affected by the characteris-
tics of textile materials and also be able to manipulate basic patterns with different
mechanical characteristics in order to get a particular garment fit, shape, and style
(Lage and Ancutiene, 2017). The length and proportion of a close-fitting dress can
be predicted by the tensile strength in the warp direction (Yan et al., 2017). By means
of the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES), the index of crease coefficients is calcu-
lated by mechanical tests of textile materials, which allows an estimation of the
increasing of the fabric surface length compared to the body surface on different lon-
gitudinal levels (Zvereva et al., 2012). For producing a suit with satisfactory silhou-
ette, the pattern designers should be able to predict the formability of textile materials
from the mechanical properties (Xue et al., 2016). To apply different fabrics to suits
from the prototype, these prediction models were created for adapting the pattern
block to maintain a good fit.
So, the ease values should be considered in the pattern-making process according to
textile material properties to achieve clothes with a good fit.

9.4.2 Ease in shoulder clothes

Theeasetobustgirth E BG (E 0.5BG ) helps to create the clothes volume at the bust level.
During the pattern block drawing, it should be divided into three components between
back, armhole, and front. To calculate E BG , the algorithm shown in Table 9.3 can be used.