Page 234 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

228 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

The values of eases may be as positive (when the dimension of pattern block bigger
than corresponding body measurement) as negative (when the dimension of pattern
block smaller than corresponding body measurement).

9.4.3 Ease in skirts and trousers

For skirts and trousers, the main eases are:
– an ease to waist girth E WG (E 0.5WG );
– an ease to hip girth E HG (E 0.5HG );
– an ease to thigh girth E TG ;
– an ease to distance measured when the participant is sitting, from sitting surface to waist
level E SS-WL ;
– an ease to knee girth E KG when the leg is bending.

The ease to waist girth E WG (E 0.5WG ) is equal or near to half of the interval between
waist girth for mass production. The ease to thigh girth E TG depends on morphological
features, dynamic effect. and textile material properties. The ease to distance E Дс
depends on the gender: for women the minimum value is 0–0.5cm, and for men
1–1.5cm. The recommended minimum values of main eases are shown in Table 9.5.

9.4.4 Ease allowance in the second part of the 20th century to the
beginning of the 21st century
Table 9.6 shows the ease allowances used in the second part of the 20th century to the
beginning of the 21st century in pattern blocks of women’s dresses, jackets, and men’s
suits. These results were obtained after parameterization of more than 1000 pattern
blocks collected from enterprises, fashion magazines, and other resources. Each ease
is presented by the average value (mean) and the range from minimum to maximum.
Therefore, the criteria of eases for well-fitting clothing are varied in history with
clothing type, style, and body measurements. For examples, the percentage distribu-
tion of E BG between the back, the armhole, and the front in men’s suits has varied
widely by percentage: the back 17–42 (average is 26.5%), the armhole 14–60 (average
is 41.5%), and the front 8–67 (average is 32%). By means of combination of these
eases, the fit and comfort can be changed in accordance with consumer demands.

Table 9.5 Minimal eases in skirts and pants (trousers)
Minimum values E min (cm)
Pants

Ease Skirt Women Men
1–1.5 1–1.5 2–2.5
E 0.5WG
E 0.5HG 1.5–2 1.5–2 2–2.5
– 5–5.5 5–5.5
E TG