Page 232 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

226 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Table 9.3 Ease to bust girth distribution along bust width of pattern block
Dimension of
No. pattern block Equation Body measurements

1 Bust width 0.5BG
+ E 0.5BG
2 Back width 0.5BW BW is the back width
+E 0.5BW
3 Armhole width d arm + E AHW d arm is the diameter of arm (the distance
between two points—armpit back
APB and armpit front APF)
4 Front width 0.5FW FW is the front width
+ E 0.5FW
+part of
breast dart

E BG depends on the kind of clothes and the volume and is modified in accordance
with fashion trends. E BG is presented as [E BG.min –E BG.max ], where E BG.min and E BG.max
are E BG corresponding to the smallest and largest thickness of textile materials used
for producing this type of clothes, respectively. Usually, E BG is published in manuals
for basic sleeve-in style. For raglan and dolman styles, the ease E BG should be
increased by 20%–30%. The eases E 0.5BW , E AHW , E 0.5FW can have different units, such
as centimeters or percent, as part of E 0.5BG .
An ease to waist girth E WG (E 0.5WG ) and an ease to hip girth E WG (E 0.5HG ) help in
obtaining different styles such as X, H, A, O due to the fit in the waist and hip area.
Ease recommendations classified by style of clothes are diverse but the rule of general
variation is similar. The recommended ease values gradually increase from close-
fitted clothes to very loose-fitted ones. Moreover, clothing styles are more sensitive
to E BG and E HG , and the acceptable ease intervals for loose-fitted and very loose-fitted
garments are larger than for other kinds. Table 9.4 shows the ease ranges for women’s
clothes.
An ease to armhole depth E AHD is variable over a huge range under the influence of
several factors. The minimum value of E AHD depends on the morphological changing
of the joint area located between torso and arm under ergonomic movements; the min-
imal compression on the armpit; the seam allowance of cup sleeve sewing into the
armhole; the air gap; and the thickness of the textile materials. For a woman’s dress
with sleeve-in, the minimum value of E AHD is near 1.5–2cm; for a dress without
sleeves it is 0.5–1cm; and for a coat it is 4–4.5cm.
An ease to arm girth E AG depends on sleeve width, thickness of materials and
dynamic postures. For example, the minimum value of E AG for a woman’s dress is
close to 9%–10% AG and must not be smaller than 3cm.
All considered eases are very important for clothes fit.
Stable relationships exist between several eases for clothes in the same style.
Fig. 9.3 shows the relationship existing between some eases designing in the