Page 305 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

298 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

11.3.3 Dynamic anthropometry

Anthropometric standards (EN 13402, ISO 7250) characterizing types of human body
sizes used in the design of clothing, including protective wear, are based on data
derived from measurements of male and female bodies in the standard posture. There-
fore, in the various methods of design of clothing, the design of the structures is based
on the measures obtained in the static position of the human body. However, a person
spends relatively little time of his life in such a static position and performs various
kinds of commonplace or working specific movements, such as gait or walk, squat-
ting, bending, stretching arms, etc. (Koblyakova et al., 1974). Therefore, results from
standard posture may not always fully satisfy requirements of pattern makers who are
to deliver clothing patterns for a man in motion, rather than to a tailor’s dummy with
“fixed posture” (Амирова and Сакулина, 1985).
There are standards that define the movements for the development of special pro-
jects (ISO 7250-1:2017, 2017), but the ergonomic standards only describe different
modes of motion, e.g., arm range, without any size references, just percentile type.
Due to this, correlation between the two measuring systems is missing (Loercher
et al., 2017a).
Studies on anthropometric dynamics are based on observations that human body
measures depend on body condition or posture, and, as the human moves, the distance
between individual body points measured on the surface of the body constantly
changes as well. For example, the studies carried out in Soviet times have revealed
significant changes (increases/reductions) in the size of body measures (lengths, cir-
cumference) at the maximum positions of the head, torso, and extremities, inherent in
the working positions (Koblyakova et al., 1974). Different research has been carried
out at different times, differing both in terms of the size and gender of groups in ques-
tion, the methods of measurement used, as well as the selected body postures and their
amplitudes. An earlier study carried out in 1968, including CSR (Czechoslovak
Socialist Republic) and the GDR (German Democratic Republic) populations, as well
as the USSR (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics) participating specialists, resulted in
the compilation of various dynamic indicators. Large groups of people (340 individ-
uals, 170 females and 170 males) were studied using traditional anthropometric man-
ual methods; measurements were made in positions such as deep inhalation, back
torsion, seated posture, chest torsion, bending, arms upwards (hands together), arms
frontwards (wrists together), hands bent in the elbow at 90-degree angle, hands hor-
izontally to the front at 90-degree angle, leg on a chair, and squat. In today’s research,
using contactless measurement methods, for example, changes in the measurements of
24 men’s upper bodies in five movement positions were found, which show both sig-
nificant decreases (negative, 22% chest width) as well as increases (positive, 27%
back width) (Hayes and Venkatraman, 2016). For the purpose of exploring the
dynamic suitability of diving suits, test persons were scanned at five positions specific
to the diving process and testing of prototypes in real-world conditions was performed
(Naglic et al., 2017). By analyzing and classifying work positions to identify the most
characteristic forms of motions, as well as to define poses so that they can be repro-
ducible, 10 different body poses were scanned (Loercher et al., 2017b). For the study