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314 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

the garment is not too loose to cause formation of moving (flowing), disturbing folds of the
l
excessive volume;
without any places for unexpected tears to appear in the garment or between its elements;
l
there is no unjustified movement restriction in any of the joints;
l
the jacket loosely covers the shoulder and the underarm (rib) area to cause no perceptible
l
constraints for hand movements in a wide range;
l the trousers cover the pelvis and the shins loosely enough, without limiting the movements of
standing, sitting, squatting and leaning;
l the crotch does not restrict movements and does not cause discomfort in the wearer’s
crotch area;
l all parts of the body to be covered by clothing remain covered during movement.
Mobility, or freedom of movements, is influenced by features of fabric used for the
wear as well as the design of the clothes (McCann and Bryson, 2009a), ensuring that
they are not too tight or too loose, and do not impair normal body movements (ISO
13688:2013, 2013). Dynamic fit of work wear calls for maximum comfort of move-
ments in response to minimum movements of clothing parts against the wearer’s body,
because, as defined by the standard (ISO 13688:2013, 2013), the design of clothing
must ensure that body parts are not exposed during the foreseeable movements
(e.g., the jacket should not rise above the waist by raising hands), thus failing to safe-
guard the body from surrounding hazards.
Weight and bulk of clothing can also encumber body movement. It has been found
that in case of bulkiness, each layer of the outfit may increase wearer’s energy con-
sumption by about 4%, caused by the troubled pace and interlayer friction (McCann
and Bryson, 2009a).
Interlayer friction is an essential factor in designing each of the separate layers that
are to be put atop one another so that the outer layers do not sit too tight and do not
impair body movement. In addition, friction may increase due to sweating—thus caus-
ing thermal discomfort, as well as limiting move of clothing over the surface of the
body parts. For example, a scan experiment with fire proximity suits showed that pro-
tective layers can encumber wearer’s movements by reducing lifting height of his or
her hands by 32mm (2056–2024mm) (Ashdown, 2011).
Methods for assessment of dynamic conformity can also be developed in directions
regarding to assessment of the volume of deformation in strained parts of clothing, dis-
placement of clothing parts against human body and degree of movement limitations.

References

Anthesis, 2015. Sustainable Clothing (Technical Report). WRAP, Banbury. 47 pp.
Ashdown, S.P., 2011. Improving Body Movement Comfort in Apparel. Woodhead Publishing
Series in Textiles, Cambridge, UK.
Chapman, R., 2012. Smart Textiles for Protection, first ed. Woodhead Publishing. 416 pp.
Choi, S., Ashdown, S.P., 2010. 3D body scan analysis of dimensional change in lower body
measurements for active body positions. Text. Res. J. 81 (I), 81–93. https://doi.org/
10.1177/0040517510377822.
EN 13402-3:2014, 2014. Size Designation of Clothes. Part 3: Body Measurements and Intervals.
EN 13921:2017, 2017. Personal Protective Equipment—Ergonomic Principles.