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National size and shape surveys 3
for apparel design
a
Jennifer Bougourd , Philip Treleaven b
a b
Consultant, London, United Kingdom, University College London (UCL), London,
United Kingdom
3.1 Introduction
The clothing and textile industry is a global economic success, worth in excess of $3
trillion (Global Fashion Statistics, 2016), but its supply chain has a significant envi-
ronmental and social impact, with the consequence that it is one of the world’s most
polluting industries. Millions of tons of clothing are being committed annually to land-
fill, some of which is the result of poorly fitting garments that could, in some cases, be
traced to a lack of accurate anthropometric data. The success of the clothing industry
comes at huge environmental cost, and part of this problem has arisen because many
countries have seen major demographic changes—life expectancy beyond 80years, a
broadening ethnic mix, and increasingly sedentary life styles—all of which have
affected body shapes and sizes. These changes have led to growing complaints from
consumers about the fit of clothes, while retailers perceived them as presenting com-
mercial opportunities.
The key to meeting some of these challenges has been the advent of reliable three-
dimensional (3-D) whole-body scanning systems, with accurate measurement extrac-
tion capability. Such systems have enabled many size and shape surveys to be under-
taken over the past two decades.
This chapter outlines the global context of the apparel industry and how size and
shape data can help to provide a more sustainable supply chain; introduces the concept
of inclusive design; and looks at ways in which surveys can be designed and
processed.
3.2 A global context
Concern with the environment is not new as can be seen in the publications by Carson
(1962) and Meadows et al. (1972). The first UN international conference on the envi-
ronment was held in the same year as the Meadows publication, and it was not until
this event that the concept of sustainable development was introduced to the interna-
tional community as a new paradigm for economic growth, social equality, and envi-
ronmental sustainability. Later, in 1987, that broad definition of environmental
sustainability was conceived as “development that meets the needs of the present
without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs,”
Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102604-5.00003-2
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