Page 63 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

92 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

reasonable fit (Beazley, 1998a). It is very challenging to develop a size chart that can
fit range of sizes for apparel. This size chart for clothing industry should effectively fit
the variation of existing sizes and shapes of many different diverse population (Xia
and Istook, 2017; Pei et al., 2017). Moreover, with different market segments, the
problem also relies on accommodating the population for different ready-to-wear
clothing stores that carry huge garment types and variations in which the right size
and fit are usually compromised (Gill, 2015; Makhanya et al., 2014).

4.1.1 Size charts
The correct and reliable data collected from human measurements will provide real
information for the industry about the sizes of their customers (Brownbridge et al.,
2018). Individual companies may decide to put labels in their clothing with the bust,
waist, and hip sizes, which will help consumers make better selections. Particularly in
women’s clothing the size label does not mean any particular measurement unless the
company publishes a size chart. For women the body sizing systems are produced
based on different combination of body measurements, proportions, and heights
(Otieno and Fairhurst, 2000). For women’s wear, sizes are labeled with numbers that
correlate with height, bust, waist, hip, and other measurements. Skirts and pants are
sold by size or by the waist measurement. Size categories for men are based on mea-
surements on chest and length. Pants are sized at the waist and inseam. Shirt sizes are
based on the measurement around the collar and the sleeve length. Most systems for
sizing RTW garments have been based on very limited information. Thus a good
sizing system should have detailed information of the key dimensions that are used
to derive the size system, and this is called the size designation (Ashdown, 2014).

4.1.2 Size and fit
Size and fit are synonyms. It is reflected in the ready-to-wear (RTW) clothing as the
product of a standard sizing system. To get a good fit, RTW clothing should be eval-
uated from the angle of individual self and body.The self-evaluation is called body
cathexis (Manuel et al., 2010). Body cathexis is the evaluative dimension of body
image and is defined as positive and negative feelings towards one’s body. The dis-
satisfaction with body cathexis will result to the dissatisfaction with clothing fit
(Kaiser, 1997). If one has higher body cathexis, the probability of satisfaction with
the fit of clothing is higher (LaBat, 1987). The feeling of dissatisfaction of clothing
fit can also be related to dissatisfaction with weight and lowered body cathexis (Song
and Ashdown, 2013). A very important first step in determining correct sizing or cre-
ating well-fitted garments is obtaining accurate measurements of the specific human
body. These measurements are considered the body evaluation, which is also known
as the anthropometry (Gill, 2015). It is the science of human body dimensions. It deals
with the methodical and precise measurement of the human body. The sizing systems
that have been developed throughout the world are very small in numbers. Most of the
world’s clothing sizing systems are neither standardized nor related to the average
human’s body measurements. Therefore the needs for anthropometric studies are