Page 255 - Cosmetology

scientific name for the yeasts used in fermentation, specifically Baker's yeast. It is the simplest single-cell
organism that operates in a manner similar to human cells and is therefore an important organism used in
genetic and molecular biology research. The Saccharomyces cerevisiae genome has been sequenced.
There are many versions of this fungus fermented with various compounds. Cosmetic ingredient
manufacturers extol this yeast as having significant properties for skin but there is little independent
research supporting its use on skin. However, some extracts of yeast, such as beta-glucan (a potent
antioxidant) is derived from yeast.

Saccharomyces lysate. See yeast.

Saccharomyces calcium ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of calcium ions. There is no
known benefit for skin.

Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces, from the Latin, literally means “sugar fungus,” and is
the scientific name for the yeasts used in fermentation. There are many versions of this fungus fermented
with various compounds; this version is fermented in the presence of copper ions. There is no known benefit
for skin, though it may have antioxidant properties.

Saccharomyces iron ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of iron ions. See Saccharomyces
copper ferment.

Saccharomyces magnesium ferment. The extract of yeast fermented in the presence of magnesium ions.
See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces manganese ferment. The extract of yeast fermented in the presence of manganese ions.
See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces officinarum ferment. Derived from the sugarcane plant. Glycolic acid is also derived from
sugarcane, but sugarcane extract does not have the same exfoliating properties as glycolic acid. There is no
research showing sugarcane extract has any benefit for skin. See AHA.

Saccharomyces potassium ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of potassium ions. See
Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces silicon ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of silicon ions. See
Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces zinc ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of zinc ions. See
Saccharomyces copper ferment.

safflower oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. Safflower oil can be an antioxidant when
consumed in the diet, but whether it retains this benefit when applied topically to skin is unknown. See
natural moisturizing factors.

sage extract. Can be a potent antioxidant. However, its fragrant camphor and phenol components can also
cause skin irritation.

salicin. See willow bark.

salicylic acid. Referred to as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), it is a multifunctional ingredient that addresses many
of the systemic causes of blemishes. For decades dermatologists have been prescribing salicylic acid as an
exceedingly effective keratolytic (exfoliant), but it also is an anti-irritant This is because salicylic acid is a
derivative of aspirin (both are salicylates—aspirin’s technical name is acetyl salicylic acid), and so it also
functions as an anti-inflammatory.Another notable aspect of salicylic acid for treating breakouts is that it has
antimicrobial properties. It is also well documented that it can improve skin thickness, barrier functions, and
collagen production. As an exfoliant, in concentrations of 8% to 12%, it is effective in wart-remover
medications. In concentrations of 0.5% to 2%, it is far more gentle, and, much like AHAs (See AHAs), can
exfoliate the surface of skin. In addition, BHA has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and
thus can exfoliate inside the pore as well on the surface of the skin; that makes it effective for reducing
blemishes, including blackheads and whiteheads.

Salix alba extract. See willow bark.