Page 272 - Cosmetology

wheat protein. See natural moisturizing factors and protein.

whey. Milk contains two primary proteins, casein and whey. When cheese is produced the more liquid
components, whey and casein, are separated from the cheese. When eaten or taken in oral supplements
whey protein can have significant antioxidant properties as well as anticancer properties because it
generates the production of glutathione in the body, which is a significant antioxidant. Whether or not any of
those benefits translate to skin is unknown. In skin care products it is most likely a good water-binding agent.

white camellia extract or oil. Used as a fragrance in cosmetics; it may be a skin sensitizer.

white nettle. Contains components that can have both anti-irritant as well as inflammatory properties.

white oak bark extract. See oak root extract.

white tea leaf extract. The minimally processed buds and leaves of green tea. There is research showing
white and green teas to have the highest concentration of antioxidant properties (via their polyphenol and
flavonoid content) of all teas, and several in vitro and animal studies have shown green tea and white tea to
have anticancer and antimutagenic properties. However, even though tea flavonoids are effective
antioxidants, it is unclear to what extent they increase the antioxidant capacity of humans, and there is no
research showing what their activity means for skin. It appears that white and green tea share similar
amounts of the polyphenol Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), which is tea’s main antioxidant. The
conclusion drawn is that white and green tea have nearly identical antioxidant activity.

white willow. See willow bark.

wild ginger. See ginger extract.

wild yam extract. The roots of wild yams were used in the first commercial production of oral
contraceptives, topical hormones, androgens, estrogens, progesterones, and other sex hormones.
Diosgenin, a component of wild yam, is promoted as a natural precursor to dehydroepiandrosterone
(DHEA). Some wild-yam products are promoted as "natural DHEA." Although diosgenin can be converted to
steroidal compounds, including DHEA, in the laboratory, this chemical synthesis does not occur in the
human body. So taking wild-yam extracts will not increase DHEA levels in humans. There is no research
showing wild yam has any effectiveness when applied topically on skin. If anything, the studies that do exist
have demonstrated that topical application of wild yam has little to no effect on menopausal symptoms.

willow bark. Contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestive process to
salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid). The process of converting willow bark to salicylic acid requires the
presence of enzymes to turn the salicin into salicylic acid. The digestive conversion process that turns salicin
into saligenin, and then into salicylic acid, is complex. Further, salicin, much like salicylic acid, is stable only
under acidic conditions. The likelihood that willow bark in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the
effectiveness of salicylic acid is at best problematic, and in all likelihood impossible. However, willow bark
may indeed have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, in this form, it appears to retain more of
its aspirin-like composition.

willow herb. See Epilobium angustifolium extract.

wintergreen oil. Can be very irritating and sensitizing.

witch hazel. Can have potent antioxidant properties “Witch hazel can have an ethanol [alcohol] content of
70 to 80 percent. Witch hazel water … contains 15% ethanol.” The alcohol can be an irritant. Witch hazel
also has a high tannin content (and tannin is a potent antioxidant), which can also be irritating when used
repeatedly on skin, though when used for initial swelling from burns it can reduce inflammation.

wormword. Herb that has antioxidant properties.

Wu wei zi. Also known as Schisandra chinensis, this herb can have a constricting effect and can be a skin
irritant.
X

xanthan gum. Used as a thickening agent.

Xi xin. See ginger extract.