Page 271 - Cosmetology

acids to name a few. These all have emollient, water-binding, and often antioxidant properties for skin. See
gamma linolenic acid and linoleic acid.

vitamin H. See biotin.

vitamin K. Some cosmetics companies sell creams and lotions containing vitamin K, claiming it can reduce
or eliminate surfaced spider veins (technically referred to as telangiectasias). These creams can’t change
spider veins. The only research concerning vitamin K’s effectiveness on skin or surfaced spider veins comes
from the companies selling these products. There are no published or peer-reviewed studies that add up to
results you can even remotely count on.

Vitex trifoliar fruit extract. See chaste tree fruit extract.

Vitis vinifera. Latin name for the vines producing wine grapes. See grape seed oil and grape seed extract.

Vitreoscilla ferment. Made from a bacteria that can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro. Whether that
effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown.

volatile oil. Group of volatile fluids derived primarily from plants, and used in cosmetics primarily as fragrant
additives. These components most often include a mix of alcohols, ketones, phenols, linalool, borneol,
terpenes, camphor, pinene, acids, ethers, aldehydes, and sulfur, which all have extremely irritating and
sensitizing effects on skin.

VP/hexadecene copolymer. A synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent.W
W

walnut extract. Can have antioxidant properties. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for
skin.

walnut oil. Emollient, nonfragrant plant oil. See natural moisturizing factors.

walnut-shell powder. Abrasive used in scrub products.

water. The most widely used cosmetic ingredient; it is almost always listed first on an ingredient label
because it is usually the ingredient with the highest concentration. Yet, despite claims of the skin’s need for
hydration and the claims regarding the special type of water used, it turns out that water may not be an
important ingredient for skin. Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for
softness and pliability in this part of the epidermis. Studies that have compared the water content of dry skin
to that of normal or oily skin don’t find a statistically significant difference in moisture levels between them.
Further, too much water in the skin can be a problem, because it can disrupt the skin’s intercellular matrix,
the substances that keep skin cells bonded to each other. The most significant aspect of the skin’s health is
the structural organization of the intercellular lipids and the related materials that keep skin intact and
prevent water loss.

water-binding agent. Wide range of ingredients that help skin retain water (moisture). Glycerin is one of the
more typical and effective water-binding agents used in cosmetics. One group of water-binding agents can
mimic the skin’s actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation; these include ceramide, lecithin,
glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA,
collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids,
glycosphingolipids, and glycosaminoglycans. No single one of these is preferred over the other because
even though they are all effective, none of them can permanently change the actual structure of skin. See
natural moisturizing factors.

watercress extract. There is a small amount of research showing dietary intake of watercress can inhibit
breast cancer cell proliferation and other cancers. Research also indicates watercress extracts can have
antioxidant activity but that information is limited. However, it is important to note that this research was
either in vitro or animal experiments and definitely not in skin-care products.

wheat germ glycerides. Used as emollient and thickening agents in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and
natural moisturizing factors.

wheat germ oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.