Page 269 - Cosmetology

the sun’s rays that cause this damage. UVA rays have wavelengths of 320 to 400 nanometers; UVB rays
have wavelengths of 290 to 320 nanometers. UVB radiation causes sunburn, while UVA radiation does not
produce any visible short-term evidence of skin damage. Nonetheless, UVA radiation creates serious
cumulative changes in skin that may be far greater than the sunburn caused by UVB radiation. Research
has shown that unprotected exposure to UVA rays can, within one week, create distinct injury, such as
inflammation, abnormal cell production, stratum corneum (outer layer of skin) thickening, depletion of
immune-stimulating cells, and evidence of the possibility of elastin deterioration
To be truly effective and beneficial for skin, sunscreens must protect skin from both the sun’s UVA and UVB
radiation. In the U.S., there are only three ingredients that are widely found in SPF products approved by the
FDA that protect across the full UVA range, these are: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone (also
called Parsol 1789 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane). Outside of the U.S., Tinosorb and Mexoryl SX
(also called ecamsule), are also used. Mexoryl SX is a L’Oreal-patented sunscreen ingredient that received
FDA approval in July 2006 for use in a single sunscreen, Anthelios SX SPF 15 from L’Oreal-owned line La
Roche-Posay. This is the only sunscreen with Mexoryl approved for sale in the U.S.

Uva ursi extract. See arbutin and bearberry extract
V

VA/crotonates. Film-forming agent. See film-forming agent.

VA/crotonates copolymer. See VA/crotonates.

Vaccinium myrtillus. See bilberry extract.

valerian. Extract of the common herb valerian (Valeriana officinalis). There is definitely research showing
that it is effective at improving sleep patterns when taken orally. There is no research showing that it has any
effect when applied topically on skin.

valine. See amino acid.

Vanilla planifolia fruit extract. Used primarily as a fragrance and flavoring agent. The vanilla plant is a
source of catechins (also known as polyphenols), which exhibit antioxidant activity and serve as anti-
inflammatory agents.

vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). Stimulates the growth of blood vessels. See human growth
factor.

verbena extract. Fragrant extract that can be a skin irritant.

Veronica officinalis extract. There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit for skin.

vetiver oil or extract. Fragrant component in skin-care products that also has some antibacterial properties.
It can also be a skin sensitizer.

Vinca minor extract. See periwinkle extract.

vinegar. Consists of acetic acid and water. The color and flavor of the vinegar is determined by and varies
with the alcoholic liquor or juice that is used to ferment the acetic acid (such as apple cider or wine). It does
have mild disinfecting and antifungal properties, but according to a study in Infection Control and Hospital
Epidemiology, commercial disinfectants are far more effective in killing germs and bacteria than vinegar.
Vinegar can be a skin irritant.

Viola tricolor extract. See pansy extract.

Visnaga vera extract. Also known as khella, when taken orally there is concern that it may cause nausea,
dizziness, constipation, headache, itching, and insomnia. Khella may cause liver problems for some people.
There is also some concern that it might cause photosensitivity because it contains khellin and
furocoumarin.

vitamin A. Considered a good antioxidant in some of its various forms, particularly as retinol and retinyl
palmitate. See retinol and Paula's article, Vitamin A: Retinol.

vitamin B1. See thiamine HCL.